Vanuatu Challenges and Connections

Vanuatu continues to confront and challenge me in ways I sometimes expect and sometimes absolutely do not, but the past fortnight has also delivered my favourite day here to date, which seems a pretty good indication that somewhere along the way I am starting to feel less like I am simply taking up space here and more like I am actually finding my place. The friendships I am developing with locals are becoming stronger and, perhaps more importantly, increasingly natural, and I am starting to feel that I am being accepted into the everyday lives of people rather than simply being the expat who happens to work alongside them.

One of my colleagues came to my place for dinner and conversation, which was such a lovely evening and, apparently, not something that locals tend to do a lot of, so I was particularly touched that she chose to spend her evening with me. During our conversation she told me that she had worked with many expats before, but that they had never really done the things I am doing to fit in so well with the locals. High praise indeed, and I am taking it! I have certainly made a conscious effort to get involved, to listen, to learn, to accept invitations and to experience life here rather than creating a little expat bubble around myself, so it was lovely to hear that this is actually being noticed.

My colleagues are definitely treating me much more like a local now as well, and one of the things that has really touched me is how quickly they come to comfort me when they know I have been emotionally upset by something we have dealt with at work. It is one thing to be accepted professionally, but quite another to have people notice when you are struggling and come to sit beside you, give you a hug or simply check that you are okay.

There have been some incredibly confronting and emotional moments at work over the past fortnight, including one that I don't think I will ever forget. One of our programme facilitators, who is based on another island, contacted us to say that she was at the local hospital here with her daughter and grandson, who was being treated for leukaemia, and asked if we could visit and donate blood. I had met the family when I went to their island for work, so a group of us went to the hospital to see them and I gave blood, which, as a universal donor, is something I am very happy to do when I can because blood is very much in demand here.

We went back again the following day, but sadly the little boy, who was only two years old, passed away.

There are moments when you simply don't know what to say or do, and this was one of them. We bought some new long pants and a white shirt, dressed that poor wee child and took him to the morgue. It was heartbreaking, particularly for his mum, who also has a one-month-old baby to care for. I think we all came back to the office carrying a little of that sadness with us, and those hugs from my workmates afterwards were very much appreciated. It is one of the realities of the work we do but knowing that doesn't make it any easier when the reality is a tiny child who should have had a lifetime ahead of him.

On the other side of life, but equally confronting in a completely different way, came a good news story from my volunteer friend who is working as a paramedic here. She was involved in getting a newborn baby to hospital after the baby had been abandoned in some bushes at the side of the road, with a shopping bag tied around its neck. It is difficult to comprehend what could lead someone to do something like that, but my friend told me that when the baby began to improve in hospital and clasped her finger, it was quite a moment.

Thankfully, the baby is now doing very well and has been adopted, which is a wonderful success story. The mother who abandoned the baby has yet to be found, but I cannot help thinking that she must have been in an extraordinary state of distress to have done something so desperate, and I sincerely hope that if she is found she can get the help and support she needs.

My paramedic friend is normally based in Santo but has been working here in Efate for the past month, so it has been great having her around for a few catch-ups and even better having her join us for quiz night. We were in the same cohort of volunteers, so there is something particularly nice about bumping into someone who started this Vanuatu adventure at the same time as you, especially when you can compare notes and realise that you are not the only one occasionally wondering what on earth you have got yourself into.

Speaking of volunteers, I am no longer the sole VSA volunteer here in Efate, as a new volunteer arrived from New Zealand on Monday. It was great to welcome her and her husband at dinner on Monday, particularly because they live only two doors down from me, so I finally have another Kiwi nearby. I suspect there may be a few conversations beginning with, "You'll never believe what happened to me this week..." because there are some things you really need another expat to understand.

I was also lucky enough to be invited to the opening of a new restaurant here one evening, where a sample of every item on the menu was served. It was great Italian food, but there was one slight problem with the concept of sampling the entire menu: none of us could actually eat everything. There were quite a few doggy bags heading home that night, which I considered a very sensible approach to Italian dining and an excellent example of community service.

Last week was also Bislama Language Week, which was promoted by the Ministry for Pacific Peoples in New Zealand as the number of Ni-Vanuatu people living and working in New Zealand continues to increase, particularly through the seasonal worker schemes, with some now settling permanently. It was fun seeing videos from around New Zealand showcasing Bislama and Ni-Vanuatu culture, and my own little video was posted as part of the celebrations, which was quite a thrill. I am still very much a learner when it comes to Bislama, but I am enjoying the process, and it is wonderful to see the language being celebrated both here and in New Zealand.

Then came a four-day long weekend, which was very welcome indeed because work has been incredibly busy and we are all feeling rather burned out after the last few months. Work gave us Friday as a wellbeing day, which was exactly what we needed to refuel our cups before Independence Day celebrations began, and I have to say that four days away from the normal routine felt like a very sensible contribution to workplace productivity.

Independence Day was celebrated in true Ni-Vanuatu style, with a wonderful parade of colour, song and dance and fireworks in the evening which were spectacular. I loved wandering around Independence Park, sampling food from the local stalls, admiring the families dressed in matching dresses and shirts and generally enjoying the fact that everyone seemed just that little bit happier. Many women have a new dress made especially for Independence Day each year, and I was no exception, with one of the lovely seamstresses from work whipping up an Independence Day dress for me. I think it is beautiful, and there are photos in the photo section for those who want to see it.

The Friday wellbeing day was spent at the home of one of my colleagues, where I had been privileged to be invited to spend the day with her extended family and join them in a memorial for her father on the anniversary of his passing. Families here are huge, so preparing enough food for everyone is no small undertaking, but we had a wonderful feast, sang, prayed and remembered her dad together.

These are the moments that make me realise how lucky I am to be here.

Being invited into someone's family life is not something I take for granted, particularly when I know that I am being welcomed into traditions and relationships that existed long before I arrived. These little moments of acceptance into local life are becoming increasingly important to me because they are the things that make Vanuatu feel less like somewhere I am living temporarily and more like somewhere I am actually experiencing.

And then came Saturday, which is hands down my favourite day here to date.

My colleague's two older teenage daughters came to my house to spend the day with me on the Saturday and learn some cooking, and what started as a simple cooking day turned into one of those experiences that I suspect I will remember for a very long time. We made some simple dishes, including yoghurt, because they love yoghurt and were incredibly excited about the prospect of making it themselves, as well as salads and a few things they had never sampled before, including gherkins and olives.

The gherkins and olives were particularly entertaining because they told me it was just like being in a movie, sampling the pickles!

They chatted all day, telling me about their hopes and dreams, school, friendships and what it is like being a teenager here. I learnt so much simply by listening to them because, as I have discovered, hearing something straight from the horse's mouth is considerably better than trying to make assumptions from the outside. They gave me a much greater insight into youth culture here, and they are such lovely girls that I am already looking forward to having them back to learn how to make pizza next time.

Their mum told me during the week that they have talked non-stop about their visit and will remember the day for a long time to come.

I will too.

It was such a privilege to have that time with them, and it also felt like another little indication that I am being accepted into local life in a way I hadn't expected when I first arrived. I came here to work, but some of the most meaningful experiences are happening completely outside my job description.

There have been some slightly less profound developments as well, including the fact that acclimatisation appears to have hit me hard. Despite the fact that it has been around 22 or 23 degrees most days, which I would normally consider reasonably warm back home, it feels very cold here. I have now invested in a hot water bottle, which is possibly the clearest evidence yet that I have become acclimatised to Vanuatu.

I do wonder how I am going to cope when I eventually return to New Zealand, particularly if what I saw in the news this week is anything to go by. I may need to return wearing three jumpers and carrying my hot water bottle like an emotional support animal.

I have also been to a few events now through work and with friends where there has been a feast prepared from local foods, and I am always blown away by the children. They just eat everything they are served. There are no picky eaters, no complaints about vegetables and no dramatic negotiations about eating something before dessert. They simply eat what is put in front of them without complaint, and I absolutely love it.

Work, as always, has been busy, with some new processes being created alongside my usual workload, while outside work I have remained surprisingly busy socially as well. I have also been helping a very special friend edit a book she has written and creating some ideas for the cover page, and I cannot wait to see it published, even if I cried several times during the editing process. I will, of course, be promoting the book heavily once it is out, because if you have ever had the privilege of helping someone bring their words to life, you know how invested you become in seeing the finished product.

And finally, there is George. 🦎

George has been very quiet, and I have had a few people asking after him, so for those of you concerned about the wellbeing of my resident gecko, I can report that he appears to be alive and well, just somewhat elusive. I think he doesn't like the cold too much and has decided that 22 degrees is simply unacceptable, so he is living outside at the moment and soaking up as much sunshine as possible. I can hear him chirping occasionally but I haven't been seeing him nearly as much.

I suspect, however, that as the temperatures begin to warm up, George will be back to his old tricks and, before too long, I will once again be discovering gecko poo on my bed.

Some things, apparently, are simply part of life in Vanuatu.

And that, friends and family, was another two weeks in paradise — challenging, confronting, occasionally heartbreaking, frequently funny and increasingly filled with the connections that are making this place feel a little more like home.

Lukim yu next time.

 

I

L-ATTitude Change – Who Knew I'd Need a Social Secretary?

Whoever said island life was slow clearly wasn't living my life. I honestly don't think I've had an evening at home in the past fortnight, and both weekends disappeared in a blur of invitations, trips, dinners and events. I moved to Vanuatu expecting a much quieter life and instead seem to have accidentally become some sort of social butterfly. It's all very exhausting and I'm starting to wonder if I need to book an appointment with myself just to have a night on the couch.

I even managed to fit in some online Toastmasters training. Well... "fit in" might be generous. It was so mind-numbingly dull that I cleaned my windows, cooked dinner and folded an entire basket of washing while it droned on in the background. Apparently, the concept of adult learning and making training engaging hasn't quite reached everyone yet. As someone who spends a fair chunk of her life training, it was like watching someone use a spoon to dig a swimming pool.

Dinner with an Ambassador... no pressure then!

One of the highlights of the past fortnight was attending a fundraising dinner and raffle night for ProMedical, Vanuatu's ambulance service. Unlike back home, ambulance services here aren't funded, so they rely heavily on fundraising to keep providing emergency care across the islands.

This particular evening was raising money to provide first aid training and medical supplies for Pentecost Island, home to around 18,000 people and, incredibly, no permanent medical service. The fundraising was a huge success, meaning local people will soon receive lifesaving training. Considering what I witnessed a few days later, that couldn't be more important.

As if the evening wasn't interesting enough, I found myself seated beside the French Ambassador and his lovely wife. She speaks virtually no English, so I had the perfect opportunity to practice my increasingly used French. We had some lovely conversations and promised to catch up again.

Land Diving – Where Bungy Jumping Really Began

Speaking of Pentecost...I was incredibly lucky to travel there for the final land diving ceremony of the season.

Wow!

Without exaggeration, it is one of the most extraordinary cultural experiences I have ever witnessed. Land diving, or Naghol, has been practiced by the men of southern Pentecost for centuries. It isn't entertainment put on for tourists. It is a deeply significant cultural ceremony celebrating the yam harvest, fertility and courage. According to local legend, the tradition began when a woman escaped her abusive husband by climbing into a banyan tree, tying vines around her ankles and jumping. Her husband followed without vines... and, well... let's just say she won that argument.

Each year, between April and the end of June, on Wednesdays and Saturdays only, men and boys leap from enormous wooden towers with nothing more than carefully selected jungle vines tied around their ankles. The timing isn't random either. It coincides with the yam harvest, with successful dives believed to help ensure a good crop.

Watching these men launch themselves headfirst towards the ground was absolutely breathtaking... and not always in a good way.

Yes, it looks terrifying.

Yes, it is terrifying.

No, there isn't a waiver to sign.

The divers aim to brush the ground with their shoulders or heads as the vines arrest their fall at the very last second. It is an astonishing feat of courage, engineering and trust.

The custom later inspired AJ Hackett after seeing land diving in Vanuatu during the 1980s. He adapted the concept using elastic cords and modern safety equipment to create what the world now knows as commercial bungy jumping. So, every person who has proudly hurled themselves off a bridge with a stretchy rope attached can thank—or blame—the people of Pentecost.

After climbing the tower once the diving had finished, I was actually surprised how solid it felt. Mind you, discovering it was sturdier than it looked didn't suddenly make me want to throw myself off it. There isn't enough money in the world. In fact, unless someone offered me an unlimited lifetime supply of crêpes, I'm pretty sure my feet will be staying firmly attached to the ground. The things you have to do to get a good yam harvest! 🍠

The reality is that injuries are common. Concussions, broken bones and other serious injuries still happen, despite generations of knowledge in selecting the vines. Standing underneath that tower gives you an entirely new respect for the bravery of every single diver. Suddenly, the fundraising dinner for first aid training made perfect sense.

One of my favourite parts of the day wasn't actually the diving though.

Afterwards I spent time chatting with one of the local mamas and her gorgeous children, who became completely fascinated with my camera. They took turns posing, giggling and demanding to see every photo afterwards before erupting into fits of laughter. Honestly, those kids are almost offensively adorable. I'll upload some of those photos soon because they deserve to be shared.

Getting there was half the adventure too. I flew in a tiny eight-seater plane, low enough to enjoy spectacular views across island after island. Flying commercially is wonderful... but sitting in what feels suspiciously like a flying people mover somehow makes everything even more memorable.

Health and Safety... Optional Apparently 🤠🐂

The local rodeo was another experience I'll never forget. Let's just say New Zealand's health and safety regulations would spontaneously combust.

The barrel racing was incredible, the bull riding had everyone holding their breath, and the bulls occasionally decided that remaining inside the arena was merely a suggestion.

Knowing one had actually jumped the fence and run into the crowd at the previous rodeo did very little to calm the nerves. The absolute highlight? The only woman brave enough to have a go at bull riding. She hung on far longer than most of the men and had the crowd absolutely roaring. I'll be adding those photos soon too.

When France Comes Calling

My social calendar also included the opening of an exhibition celebrating sixty years of French volunteering in Vanuatu.

Another invitation from the Ambassador – that promised catch up being quicker than expected!

It's a tough life!

The evening included speeches, the exhibition itself, excellent conversations, French wine and delicious canapés.I could probably get used to this diplomatic lifestyle...

...provided someone else keeps inviting me.

A Little Slice of Home – Matariki ✨

Without doubt though, the highlight of the fortnight was celebrating Matariki at the residence of His Excellency Peter Kemp, New Zealand's High Commissioner. After five months away from home, it was exactly what my heart needed.

There were beautiful waiata (songs) from embassy staff, reflections on the meaning of Matariki and this year's theme, wonderful speeches and, best of all......a proper hāngī. For my non Kiwi friends, google is your friend to learn about what Matariki is and the importance of it in New Zealand, along with what a hāngī is.

Oh, my goodness. The taste of home. I don't think anyone realised just how much that meant to me. It was also one of the rare occasions I actually dressed up. Proper shoes even made an appearance. They looked at me as though we'd never met before, which, to be fair, after five months in sandals, we really hadn't. A nice dress finished it all off, thankfully Em had recently sent it over with Toni – just in time for this event!

It was a beautiful evening and one I'll remember for a long time. Photos are coming soon!

Apparently, I Also Have a Job

Somewhere amongst all this socialising I've actually been working.

I've just finished writing a finance manual for our Finance Manager. She already knows the accounting software inside out, but what she really needed was understanding why things happen.

Understanding the "why" changes everything. Instead of simply following steps, she can now troubleshoot problems using the manual, understand imbalances, think critically and solve issues independently. Watching that confidence grow has been incredibly rewarding.

Laplap, Lemon Chicken and Muffin Madness

We also had a shared lunch at work where everyone made laplap, Vanuatu's national dish. Watching it being prepared is fascinating. It's cooked on hot volcanic stones, a little like a hāngī, but above ground and the whole process is just as much about community as it is about food. I also introduced everyone to roasting chicken in an oven. We are lucky enough to have one at work, but nobody used it due to not knowing how. People only have a fire, and a gas ring to cook on at home and an actual oven in a house is a rarity. Judging by the reaction to squeezing lemon over the chicken and throwing the squeezed halves into the roasting pan as well, along with some herbs and soy sauce you'd have thought I'd just demonstrated nuclear fusion.

Who knew citrus could create so much excitement?

For Matariki I baked muffins to take into work. They disappeared at record speed. Most had never actually seen muffins before and kept calling them pancakes. Close enough...Several wanted the recipe, although I'm not entirely convinced, they'll have much luck recreating them over an open fire without muffin tins. Looks like I'll just have to keep baking. It's a sacrifice I'm willing to make. Given my profound disdain for cooking, I am seriously wondering who I am now!

I've Found My Happy Place

My adventures also uncovered what may well be my favourite restaurant in Vanuatu.

A French crêperie.

A restaurant devoted entirely to crêpes. Sweet crêpes. Savoury crêpes. If heaven has a café, I'm fairly certain this is what it looks like. As if that wasn't enough, they also served the best coffee I've had since arriving. Not just good coffee. Proper coffee. Cinnamon-spiced perfection. I had one savoury crêpe. Then a sweet one. Zero regrets! This establishment will now see me on a fairly regular basis. For research purposes, obviously.

Erakor Island

Last weekend Aussie Carol and I headed over to Erakor Island. What a beautiful spot. Crystal clear lagoon. White sand. Kayaks. Fantastic food. One spectacular cocktail that I may still be thinking about. The resort is probably my favourite so far for families.

It also has some fascinating history, including graves of some of the first missionaries who arrived in Vanuatu in 1845, along with the cutest little outdoor wedding chapel you've ever seen.

The swimming pool wasn't anything special, but honestly, with a lagoon like that, who needs one?

The Massage That Nearly Cost Me My Firstborn

While Toni and Helen were visiting, we treated ourselves to hot stone massages at a spa near my house.

Absolute bliss.

Back in New Zealand I'd previously had hot stones placed on me while the therapist wandered off only to come back after 30 minutes. Here, they actually massage you with the stones. It was heavenly. I'm fairly certain Helen and I turned into warm human puddles. Had the masseuse asked for my firstborn halfway through, there's every chance I'd have agreed.

Sorry, Em!

Self-care is important, especially when you've spent months sleeping on what can best be described as "an enthusiastic suggestion of a mattress”. "My back has never been so grateful.

A Timely Reminder

There was also a sobering reminder this week of just how quickly illnesses and infections can become serious in the tropics.

One of the Australian volunteers became unwell and had to be flown home for treatment.

It really reinforced how even the smallest cut or seemingly minor illness needs to be taken seriously here. Things can deteriorate incredibly quickly in the heat and humidity.

It's one of those realities of island life you never quite appreciate until you see it happen.

Until Next Time...

So yes... who knew moving to a tropical island would leave me wondering whether I needed to schedule a night at home?

I'm still hopelessly behind on editing photos and updating the gallery, but I promise they'll be coming soon.

Finally, a huge shout out to Cy, who sadly lost his beautiful budgie, Ice, over the weekend. Watching the loving way, he honoured little Icy's life had me sitting here in Vanuatu with tears rolling down my face. It's amazing how such tiny creatures leave such enormous holes in our hearts.

Big loves, Cy. ❤️

Until next time...

 

 

Visitors from Home and Suitcase Gold

Wow, another fortnight has whizzed by, and I am still buzzing from a week-long visit from my dear friends Toni and Helen.

Firstly, enormous gratitude for the supplies from home which have left me very well stocked for a while. I was thoroughly spoiled and will be carefully rationing everything because it is a long time until the next delivery service disguised as visiting friends arrives. The gin has never tasted quite so good, now that I have decent tonic!

It was wonderful to share my new life with Toni and Helen, including my workplace and work whānau, whom I am so proud to be part of. They arrived armed with gifts not only for me but also for my colleagues and for the children coming through our programmes. Everything was incredibly well received and will go a long way.

One unexpected highlight has been seeing many of my colleagues proudly rocking Kiwi keychains every day. It's amazing how something so small can create such joy.

There are quite a few photos from their visit in the photo section and, no, Helen was not lying down for the entire trip despite what some of the pictures may suggest! She did produce some wonderful meals, including a bread-and-butter pudding that can only be described as life changing. Helen is the most amazing cook, and I took full advantage of her love for the kitchen as of course I have a hate/hate relationship with kitchens! If anyone was wondering whether paradise can be improved, the answer is yes. Add pudding. I did insist of course that they try some of the local dishes, so off to the market we went to buy some simboro and laplap as you can't visit here without sampling those things. The local fruits were a huge hit and were served everyday, papaya, pineapple, passionfruit and pamplemousse. Some new fruits were tried and enjoyed for the first time too, soursop which is a delicious fruit full of many healing properties and chocolate fruit also known as black sapote which looks like chocolate mousse when cut open and tastes somewhat like a peach or a lychee. 

Pele Island Adventures

We managed plenty of adventures during their stay, including swims at my favourite resort, the Aelan chocolate factory and a snorkelling trip to Pele Island. The snorkelling there is absolutely spectacular, and the beach is every bit as beautiful as the postcards suggest.

While on the island, we were given a village tour and learned about how the community stays connected. When there is important information to share, the chief blows a conch shell in the village square. He is the only person permitted to blow it. The sound signals that everyone should gather for a village meeting.

The meetings cover everything from updates from the mainland, village finances, engagements, weddings and community news through to resolving disputes. Simple, practical and highly effective. Sometimes I think a few workplaces back home could benefit from replacing lengthy email chains with a bloke and a conch shell.

We also met a fantastic group of fourteen Australians on the tour who were wonderful company and kindly became our unofficial photographers for the day.

One particularly special part of the trip involved a young girl named Frankie. She had spent her school lunch breaks making bracelets to give to the village pikininis. It was entirely her own idea, and it was such a delight to watch her hand them out. We had brought chocolate to share as well, proving once again that chocolate remains the universal language of children.

In return, the pikininis sang us a beautiful song. They are incredibly sweet and, as I see throughout Vanuatu, genuinely grateful for even the smallest gesture.

Kate has every reason to be proud of her daughter. The bracelet idea was completely Frankie's own and demonstrated a level of empathy and awareness that many adults never quite master.

Back to Work

I took some time off while Toni and Helen were here, so there was plenty waiting for me when I returned.

One of the more enjoyable tasks was creating a safeguarding refresher quiz and scavenger hunt for our programme teams. It was great fun putting together and proved that refresher training doesn't always have to involve death by PowerPoint.

I remain convinced that if people are laughing while learning, they remember far more.

Toastmasters, Beaches and Tough Choices

Sadly, I was unable to log in for the 12th birthday celebration of my beloved Cupcake Communicators Toastmasters club.

I would like to say there was a compelling reason.

There was.

The beach was calling.

I was with the ladies in spirit and loved seeing the photos afterwards. Here's to another twelve years of laughter, friendship and speeches.

George, the Climbing Gecko

Of course, Toni and Helen got to meet George and his family.

George continues to perfect his wall-climbing techniques, demonstrate gravity-defying abilities and provide regular chirping commentary. Add in the neighbourhood roosters, dogs and assorted wildlife and we enjoyed another week of Vanuatu's famous all-night symphony orchestra. 🦎🐓🐕

There are moments when I miss the silence of New Zealand.

Then George chirps.

And I laugh.

A Different Reality

I've mentioned before that school is not compulsory here, which contributes to lower literacy rates and limited computer skills in some communities.

Many local schools face significant challenges. Not all teachers are formally qualified, unlike those in the international schools attended by some local children.

The biggest barrier, however, is cost.

School fees can be around 250,000 vatu per year at the cheaper end of the scale, which is approximately NZ$3,700 at current exchange rates. Meanwhile, the average monthly salary is around 77,000 vatu, or roughly NZ$1,140 per month.

When you look at those numbers, it becomes much easier to understand why not every child is able to attend school.

Many children spend their days caring for younger siblings while parents work. It is remarkable to see the responsibility some of these young people carry and how capable they become at such an early age.

With no income tax here, virtually everything operates on a user-pays basis. Education and healthcare are often simply beyond the reach of many families.

This is why volunteers remain so important. Building capability and sustainability within businesses, NGOs and charities helps create a future where organisations can be fully locally led. The Ni-Van people deserve every opportunity to shape their own future through skills, knowledge and economic stability.

I also make a conscious effort to support as many Ni-Van-owned businesses as possible. Keeping money circulating within local communities creates opportunities and strengthens the economy from within.

Not Bali, Not Fiji, and That's the Point

One thing that surprises many visitors is that Vanuatu doesn't offer the same infrastructure as tourist hotspots such as Bali or Fiji.

People often arrive expecting large resorts, endless amenities, polished customer service and bargain-basement prices.

Instead, they discover that most things have to be imported, which naturally increases costs. Bali benefits from being part of Indonesia, while Fiji sits on major transport routes. Vanuatu operates under very different circumstances.

What Vanuatu offers instead is something many places have lost.

Time.

Island time.

The opportunity to slow down, breathe, stop rushing and simply enjoy where you are.

It takes you back to a simpler way of living and reminds you that many of the things we think we need are actually optional extras.

Calls From Home

I've enjoyed lots of chats with people back home over the past couple of weeks.

Please keep them coming.

Messages, phone calls, random updates about your pets, complaints about the weather, neighbourhood gossip—I love hearing it all. Being so far away makes those connections incredibly special.

Happy Birthday Apollo Mitchell

Today was a big day as my namesake, Apollo Mitchell, turned one year old.

I cannot believe a whole year has passed since I had the absolute privilege of being present at his birth.

I was so touched when Em told me they had recently changed his name to include Mitchell as his middle name. Every time I say it, it gives me a warm feeling.

Missy now insists on calling him "Apollo Mitchell" in full, which is completely adorable.

Moments like birthdays, celebrations and family milestones are probably when the distance feels greatest. There are certainly times when I wish I could jump on a plane for a quick weekend home.

That said, I wouldn't trade this experience for anything.

Until Next Time

A shorter blog this fortnight because I was busy doing something far more important than writing about life.

I was out there living it.

The next fortnight is shaping up to be a very social one, so there should be plenty more stories to share next time.

Until then,

xxx

 

.

Another Fortnight in Paradise

Another two weeks have whizzed by and, somehow, I have now been living in Vanuatu for four months. Four months! I genuinely don't know where that time has gone. I suppose time flies when you're learning an entirely new way of life and discovering that all the things you thought you knew about yourself can be challenged by something as simple as the weather.

Work and New Ideas

Work has kept me busy as always. End-of-month financial reporting rolled around, along with loading a budget from a new donor. I also had a meeting with an NGO interested in a subscription service I’ve just developed. It's something I'm really excited about.

We'll be offering one-on-one counselling for NGOs, businesses, churches and other organisations, along with workshops through a three-tier subscription package. The idea is to extend our services beyond our three key programmes while generating some income that isn't solely reliant on donor funding. With economies tightening in many of our donor countries and foreign aid budgets increasingly under pressure, it feels like a sensible way to future-proof what we do.

Friday saw me delivering basic Excel training to 19 people at work. We started with adding, filling, tables, sort and filter. Riveting stuff, I know. Rather than making people sit through death by PowerPoint while watching me click around a spreadsheet, I'd created exercises so they could learn by doing.

It worked really well.

There were lots of questions, plenty of laughter and some very satisfying moments where you could almost see the lightbulbs going on over people's heads. By the end of the few hours there had been a definite uplift in confidence and capability, which is a really rewarding part of my role here and one of the key outcomes of my role description.

Winter in Vanuatu (Apparently)

It's finally happened.

I have become one of those people who complains about being cold in Vanuatu.

At 27 degrees Celsius.

I even wore my one long-sleeved top one day and, for the first time since arriving here, put on actual shoes instead of sandals or jandals. You would have thought I was learning to walk again or incredibly drunk. It took me a surprisingly long time to adjust to having my feet enclosed. Apparently after four months of freedom, shoes become optional torture devices.

I never thought I'd be that person, but here we are.

The dry season has definitely arrived, bringing cooler temperatures, lower humidity and much more comfortable nights. Funnily enough though, the dry season seems to have brought more rain.

Today it has poured all day.

Rain, Roads and Running Water

My street is flooded and I've discovered that my bedroom isn't entirely waterproof, with impressive leaks running down from the windowsills. The landlord is going to absolutely love hearing from me yet again.

The flooding has probably been made worse because the road outside has been dug up while they lay new water pipes. What was once a road is now mostly mud with aspirations.

The new pipes also meant that on Monday I arrived home to discover there was no water.

I asked the workers outside when it might be back on and was cheerfully told, "Oh sori tumas... long taem."

They weren't wrong.

The water eventually came back sometime after I'd gone to bed at 11pm. There was no shower, no cooking and, perhaps most devastatingly, no coffee because my electric jug happened to be empty.

A little warning would have been lovely, but that's just not how things are done here. Things happen when they happen.

Speaking of jugs, I had to buy a new one because my old one finally gave up. In one of life's great mysteries, a new electric jug cost less than a punnet of tomatoes, which still sits at around NZ$21.

I don't understand Vanuatu pricing and I've stopped trying.

World Cup Fever

World Cup fever has well and truly arrived. Last Friday there was a huge parade through Vila, and the place was awash with flags and colour. There are photos of both the parade and one of the local communities near work where houses are proudly displaying flags from all over the world.

I was delighted to spot a New Zealand flag outside one house.

Sadly, I didn't see any in the parade itself, which makes me think the All Whites aren't exactly among the favourites here.

It certainly adds colour wherever you go and the atmosphere has been wonderful to experience.

Critters and Coral

With the dry season, the critter world seems to be changing too.

I barely hear George and family anymore and haven't seen him all week. 🦎 Every now and then there's the occasional chirp outside my room at night, but the gecko soundtrack has quietened down.

The swallows, however, have arrived.

They're elegant little birds and watching them swoop and dart through the sky is lovely. They are also impossible to photograph because apparently, they have places to be and no interest whatsoever in helping my blog.

Water activities remain one of my favourite pastimes and this week's photos include more of the incredible coral and marine life here.

Including dugongs.

They're not guaranteed sightings, but after spending a bit of time around Pango, there they were. Seeing them in the wild was one of those moments where you just stop and think, "How is this my life now?" Thankfully friends have underwater cameras as my trusty phone is definitely not up to the task of underwater photography!

The dry season has brought more tourists too, probably because cooler temperatures and fewer mosquitoes are far more appealing. It has, however, increased the traffic.

Traffic Island Style

There are no traffic lights here.

There are no pedestrian crossings.

There are no speed limits.

Nobody wears seatbelts.

People talk on their phones while driving.

My bus driver on Friday was watching the opening of the World Cup on his phone while driving and holding it in his hand.

Drink driving also seems far more common than I would ever be comfortable with.

And yet...

I have not seen a single traffic accident.

Drivers stop to let pedestrians cross.

They wave other drivers in.

Nobody blasts their horn because someone took an extra two seconds.

Everyone just seems to adjust to the conditions around them.

It is island time demonstrated through traffic management, and, against all odds, it works.

The Mystery of the Missus Dress

Recently I bought a second-hand dress from an Australian woman returning home. It's a lovely bright dress with buttons all the way down the front.

I wore it to work and was told how nice I looked in my "missus dress."

Apparently, that's what this style of dress is called here because it's what white women are thought to wear.

I had never before received compliments on a missus dress when I wear clothes from home as none of those meet the “missus bill”.

Whenever I wear an island dress, though, people are incredibly complimentary. Ni-Vanuatu genuinely appreciate you embracing their clothing styles and it's lovely when people stop to tell you that you look nice.

Even men will say so as you walk down the street.

Not in a creepy way.

Just kindness.

And it always leaves you smiling.

Reflections on Friendship and Belonging

Four months in a new country gives you plenty of time to reflect.

I've lived alone for years and have often experienced loneliness, particularly after redundancy, when you discover who was only around while you happened to be useful.

Moving countries adds another dimension entirely.

You learn how to sit with being alone until it no longer feels uncomfortable.

Building a life takes time.

Making friends takes time.

I feel incredibly grateful that I now have a wonderful circle of friends here. Saturdays spent over long lunches, putting the world to rights and laughing until your face hurts have made all the difference.

I'm also so grateful to Em, Toni and Rilee for their regular contact from afar.

Because, if I'm honest, it does become apparent that with a few wonderful exceptions, unless you're the one reaching out, out of country can quickly become out of mind.

When Culture Challenges You

Living in another culture really hit home this week.

A local business posted on Facebook for Pride Month, offering photography sessions to five LGBTQI couples.

The backlash was enormous.

Vanuatu is predominantly Christian and while same-sex relationships are generally tolerated, many people don't support publicly advocating for or promoting them. Even the Prime Minister's Office issued a statement reinforcing that the promotion of Pride contradicted the values of the country.

To say I was shocked would be an understatement.

It was a sobering reminder that the values, acceptance and allyship we may take for granted aren't universal. Living overseas isn't just beaches, coral reefs and tropical sunsets. Sometimes it's recognising that other societies view the world very differently and learning how to sit with that discomfort.

Remembering Elise

Last weekend also brought sad news with the passing of another friend.

RIP Elise.

You left an incredible legacy within the visually impaired community, working tirelessly to educate others and introduce technologies that transformed people's daily lives.

You made the world better for having been in it.

A Weekend Well Spent

Friday night was Kiwi Kava Night hosted by the New Zealand High Commission, which is always a lovely opportunity to catch up with fellow Kiwis, chat with our wonderfully down-to-earth High Commissioner and make plans for future weekends.

Saturday was girls' lunch at South Pacific Memories, right at the southern tip of Efate.

It was, hands down, the best meal I've had in Vila.

The homemade focaccia was to die for and whatever magical spread accompanied it was surely ambrosia.

A few cocktails, deep and meaningful conversations, lots of laughter and great company from my American and Australian friends made it the perfect afternoon.

Sunday brunch with Carol followed. I've recently created some graphs for her volunteer work at the hospital to demonstrate work patterns and trends. We both ended up buying local artwork from the café where we had lunch and I now have a colourful little piece hanging at home.

It's amazing how one small piece of art can suddenly make a house feel a little more like home.

As I write this, the rain has finally stopped and I can start preparing for another week, including making yoghurt for lunches in my lovely new yoghurt maker.

I also only have a three-day work week because Toni and Helen arrive on Thursday for a visit.

I am beyond excited.

This Week's Culture Lesson

One of the things I continue to learn is that kastom remains incredibly important throughout Vanuatu, but it isn't one-size-fits-all. Customs differ enormously across the country's 83 islands.

This week's lesson came from hearing about traditional scarification practices on Tanna. In some communities on the island of Tanna, young girls reaching their first period undergo ceremonial scarification as part of their transition into womanhood. Fine cuts are made in the skin using broken bottles or sharpened bamboo sticks. Substances such as ash are rubbed into the wounds to encourage the formation of raised scars and distinctive patterns.

My immediate Western response was, "Goodness (or words to that effect), that sounds painful."

But these markings aren’t seen as disfigurement. They symbolise beauty, strength, courage and belonging. They acknowledge an important milestone and demonstrate that a young woman possesses the resilience required for adulthood. Some patterns also reflect family connections, identity and social standing within the community.

Like many kastom practices, scarification has become less common over time as Christianity, education and changing social attitudes have influenced communities differently across the islands. But hearing about it reminded me how easy it is to view traditions through our own cultural lens and how important it is to understand the meaning behind them before making judgements.

It is often these conversations that never make it into the glossy tourism brochures that teach me the most about this remarkable country.

Well, that's another fortnight in paradise.

Catch you next time.

xx

 

.

🌴 Another Busy Fortnight in Paradise 🌴

✈️ Sandra Claus Arrives!

Another busy fortnight has flown by here in paradise, and without question the highlight was having my very first visitor from New Zealand arrive – the wonderful Sandra, or as I like to call her, Sandra Claus. 🎅

Sandra arrived laden with what can only be described as a Red Cross relief package from my beloved Cupcake Ladies, and I am so incredibly grateful to all of them.

The contents were immediately put to good use and have already made life here even more comfortable. I now have books to keep me entertained in the evenings, a yoghurt maker to help thwart those eye-watering supermarket yoghurt prices (and I can confirm the homemade yoghurt has been delicious!), my favourite coffee, batteries, and all sorts of other essentials from home.

One of my absolute favourite gifts was a set of beautiful sofa cushion covers made by Judy. They have added some much-needed colour and cosiness to my rather bare sitting room and make it feel much more like home.

Sandra certainly made the most of her time here and managed to tick off many of Vanuatu's tourist highlights. She enjoyed a day at Iririki Island with a swim in the wonderfully warm Pacific Ocean, a walk across the sky bridge and through the gardens, and a harbour cruise where Nemo and friends obligingly emerged for photographs before darting back into their coral and anemone homes.

She also experienced the famous fire show, which I maintain should be compulsory viewing for every visitor. It is simply spectacular.

In between all of that we enjoyed several lovely lunches at local cafés, spent an afternoon swimming at my friend Carol's pool, and shared plenty of good conversation and laughter.

Thank you for coming, Sandra. It was wonderful having a little piece of home visit.

Sandra also achieved something I am still waiting for – she saw dugongs in the harbour!  I am extremely jealous as I have yet to spot one myself. I think the only bucket list item she missed was seeing a turtle.

The photo section includes a few memories from her visit, including a picture of the ubiquitous "Three Carols" plus Sandra enjoying the fire show.

 

 Work Life

Work has continued to keep me busy.

Much of the past fortnight has been devoted to finance-related activities including uploading budgets into the accounting system, transferring expenditure between projects to align with budget allocations, creating Gantt charts for donors, and completing my subscription model for counselling services.

One particularly sobering event occurred a couple of weeks ago when all of the staff from the Senta travelled to visit one of our colleagues and his family after their home was completely destroyed by fire over the weekend.

We went to offer support, pray together, and deliver donations of clothing, household items and money collected by staff.

Standing where a family home had once been and seeing nothing but ashes was incredibly confronting. Once again, I found myself struck by the resilience of the local people.

Sadly, insurance for homes, contents and vehicles is not common here, and this family had no cover.

Despite the devastation, there was dignity, strength and determination to rebuild.

 

 Water Baby Adventures Continue

My aquatic adventures continue and I seem to be slowly transforming into a fully-fledged water baby.

Regular kayaking, snorkelling and swimming are now firmly embedded into my routine.

Apart from providing much-needed relief from the tropical heat, every outing offers the chance to discover more of the extraordinary marine life here.

The brightly coloured fish, incredible coral formations and giant clams continue to amaze me every single time.

I will confess to letting out a rather undignified squeal recently when a particularly handsome yellow and blue fish decided to bite me. 😳

It didn't hurt in the slightest, but the speed at which it happened certainly gave me a fright!

 

 Resort Research (It's a Tough Job...)

I have also continued my highly scientific research project of visiting local resorts.

Many resorts offer day passes that allow visitors access to their pools and beaches, so naturally I have taken it upon myself to thoroughly investigate these opportunities.

This enables me to provide recommendations to future visitors based on different budgets and interests.

While I don't get to inspect the accommodation itself, I do get to evaluate the grounds, pools, beaches, menus and, importantly, the friendliness and helpfulness of staff.

It is a tough assignment, but somebody has to do it.

 

 Critter Corner

Home remains something of a wildlife sanctuary, although the arrival of the dry season has noticeably reduced the number of critter visitors.

George remains a constant presence. 🦎

Unfortunately, my termites returned with a vengeance and managed to produce impressive piles of sawdust every day while thoughtfully eating holes in several items of clothing.

Thankfully the landlord arranged another visit from the exterminator and hopefully this latest treatment will be their final farewell.

The dry season has also brought slightly cooler temperatures with days ranging between 26 and 32 degrees Celsius.

What continues to amuse me enormously is seeing colleagues and locals wrapped in woollen jerseys, puffer jackets and occasionally gloves whenever temperatures dip to 26 degrees.

To my New Zealand sensibilities this still feels positively tropical.

That said, I must admit there was one evening where I actually felt cold. I dug out the only long-sleeved item I brought with me and found myself wishing I had packed a throw for the bed.

 

 World Cup Fever

World Cup fever has well and truly arrived.

Many houses and vehicles are proudly displaying the flags of their chosen teams, and some communities have become wonderfully colourful as a result.

Based on my entirely unscientific observations, France and Brazil appear to be the most popular teams, although there are plenty of German 🇩🇪 and Argentinian 🇦🇷 flags flying as well.

The visual effect is joyful and adds even more colour to daily life here.

 

 Passionfruit Paradise

My colleagues continue to spoil me with gifts from their gardens, for which I am extremely grateful.

Passionfruit is one of my favourite fruits and is considered quite a luxury back home.

Imagine my delight when I recently opened my fridge to discover that an entire shelf is now overflowing with passionfruit and Pamplemousse (grapefruit), gifted to me from colleagues. 🍈🍈🍈

Pure decadence!

Future Hospitality Stars

Friday evening saw a group of us enjoying dinner at the Vanuatu Institute of Technology.

The tourism and hospitality students run restaurant evenings where they gain practical experience preparing meals, serving customers and developing their hospitality skills.

We enjoyed a three-course meal with three choices available for each course and all of it was delicious.

It was wonderful to see the students gaining real-world experience in such a supportive environment.

 

 State of Origin & Quiz Night Glory

Midweek found me at my local pub watching State of Origin and cheering on my beloved Blues as they secured the first win of the series. 💙🏉

I have become friends with the Australian owners and discovered there is truly nothing quite like watching State of Origin in an Australian pub filled with Australians.

The noise, banter, friendly rivalry and passion created a fantastic atmosphere and made for a thoroughly enjoyable evening.

The same pub also hosts a weekly quiz night where my team has managed to finish in the prize money every week since I joined.

Those who know me from previous quiz teams will not be remotely surprised by this.

My collection of otherwise useless information has finally found its true purpose. 😂

 Thoughts From Afar – The New Zealand Budget

The biggest news from home this fortnight was, of course, the New Zealand Budget.

Sadly, for many New Zealanders there appears to be little relief from the ongoing cost-of-living pressures, and further public sector cuts will mean thousands more public servants facing redundancy.

The flow-on effects extend far beyond those directly losing their jobs. Every redundancy affects households, spending patterns, businesses and local economies.

Wellington in particular is likely to feel the impact as families once again tighten already stretched budgets.

Having experienced redundancy myself during the previous round of cuts, I genuinely empathise with those now facing the same uncertainty.

For me, the impact wasn't solely financial. It affected my confidence, my sense of purpose and my optimism about the future.

To everyone currently navigating that journey, my thoughts are with you. ❤️

I suspect migration numbers will continue to rise as more people look overseas for opportunities and stability.

One of the things that continues to strike me while living here is the contrast around food.

Vanuatu has its own cost-of-living challenges, but access to fresh fruit and vegetables remains relatively achievable for many people.

Back in New Zealand, fresh produce increasingly feels like a luxury item for too many households.

And don't even get me started on the suggestion that artificial intelligence will somehow solve New Zealand's public sector challenges.

While AI is undoubtedly a powerful and useful tool, I remain deeply sceptical about using it to answer Official Information Act requests, draft ministerial responses or assist with decisions that affect people's lives.

Technology can support people, but it cannot replace judgement, empathy, lived experience or understanding of the human condition.

Interestingly, even ministers acknowledged on Budget Day that they use AI sparingly within their own departments.

That alone perhaps tells its own story.

 

 Until Next Time...

Well that's me for another fortnight.

I hope everyone is keeping well wherever you are.

Please don't be a stranger. Text, call or email whenever the mood strikes. 📱☎️📧

I absolutely love hearing your news from home.

Take care of yourselves, be kind to one another, and I'll be back with more adventures from paradise soon.

Much love,

Carol xxx 🌺