Welcome to L - ATTitude Change, where I share the witty and sometimes wild journey of daily life in a new country. From navigating fresh culinary landscapes to embracing career shifts and volunteering efforts, come along as we explore the nuances of cultural adaptation and personal growth. Get ready for informative insights and a good laugh – all from a Kiwi perspective.

Butterfly Effect (and other chaotic but excellent developments)

I am firmly in my butterfly era. 🦋
You know the one — wings unfolding, curiosity dialled up, saying yes to things, and generally embracing a slightly unhinged level of openness to whatever comes next. If a caterpillar from Alice in Wonderland told me to expand my mind right now, I’d be like “say less, sir, I’m already there.”

The past two weeks have been a lot — in the best possible way — which is why there was no blog last weekend. Frankly, I was far too busy living my best island life to sit still long enough to write about it.

Let’s begin with what may go down as one of my favourite weekends yet.

Saturday started at the extremely offensive hour of 5am for the dawn service (because the sun here believes in overachieving). The service ran for about an hour — longer than I’m used to — but it was a really special time to reflect, remember those who fought for the freedoms we now enjoy, and think of my great grandfather who made it back from Gallipoli. When the New Zealand national anthem played… well… let’s just say there was a small, dignified tear.

The New Zealand High Commission then put on breakfast, which was both lovely and — importantly — free. And as we all know, free food tastes at least 30% better. Met some great people, exchanged numbers, and added a few more humans to my “people I know in this country” list, which continues to grow nicely.

From there, I headed to my weekly swim where I met Dan and Evan (Aussies here on business). A casual poolside chat turned into plans to meet later that night to watch the NZ Warriors game at a sports bar. Before that though, I dashed home for a Zoom call to watch my dear friend Helen do her final run-through of her humorous speech for national finals. It was such a privilege to be part of that final polish — and even better to get the message last night that she WON! 🏆 So incredibly deserved.

Then off to the sports bar where the Warriors delivered the goods and the night delivered the vibes. Honestly, 10/10.

Sunday? Oh just a casual island tour with the boys.

We hit the Blue Lagoon first — which is essentially Vanuatu’s version of a waterpark, except instead of plastic slides, it’s rope swings over crystal-clear blue water. Then on to Eton Beach, which is offensively beautiful with its white sand and “is this even real?” scenery.

Next stop: thermal pools. Mud bath first (very spa influencer of me), rinse in the hot springs, then progressively move through pools until your body says “absolutely not” and you retreat. Followed by Top Rock, which delivers insane views over nearby islands and more ridiculously clear water with amazing snorkelling.

Then back to town so they could catch their flight, and just like that, my spontaneous weekend tour guides were gone. Massive shoutout to Dan and Evan for an epic weekend — strangers to friends in under 24 hours, as is the way over here.

In between all that, Toastmasters life continues. I’ve had a few meetings — both club and admin — and we now have three fantastic leaders steering the waka for the coming year. Looking forward to seeing what they do.

I did briefly disappear from one meeting because I got my second call from Be My Eyes since I have been here. For those who haven’t heard of it, it’s an app where blind or low-vision people can video call volunteers for help with everyday tasks — things like reading labels, checking expiry dates, or navigating something visually tricky. You just answer when a call comes through and be their eyes for a few minutes. It’s simple, practical, and honestly a really cool way to help someone in real time. Highly recommend looking it up. 👀

Work has been full-on (shock). I’ve been meeting with other NGOs and potential donors and also pulled together supplier contracts for all our preferred suppliers. This week we’ll be signing those and running each supplier through our safeguarding policy — which is absolutely critical given the nature of our work.

On a personal achievement note: I translated all contracts and the safeguarding policy into Bislama… and had minimal corrections. I will be accepting praise at any time. 💁‍♀️

Back home in NZ, I’ve been watching the wild weather unfold and thinking of you all — especially seeing our old street being one of the worst hit. That was definitely a bit jarring. Meanwhile here, the weather continues to operate like it’s on a ten-minute rain timer, and cyclone season officially wrapped up at the end of April. Dry season, here we come. 🙌

Huge congratulations to Fraser, who I recommended for my old role at Aon and who got the job. I always said I’d keep an eye out for opportunities for people I’ve led, and while it’s been a few years, I knew he’d absolutely smash it — and frankly, probably be better than me in the role. Love that for him.

Now, for the data nerds (me): Vanuatu released its first-ever Labour Market Survey this week and I was ALL OVER IT. 🤓 – as someone who managed the NZ Labour Market release for a while, the geek in me was thrilled to see the first ever one here.
And when I say “all over it,” I mean I absolutely spiralled into the stats.

Some extra juicy highlights:

Unemployment (in the formal sense) is low — sitting around the low single digits — which sounds impressive until you realise it reflects how few people are actually in formal employment
Underutilisation is where things get real — a large share of people are either underemployed or not using their skills fully
Youth are feeling it the most, with much higher unemployment and underutilisation rates than the national average
Informal and subsistence work dominate the economy
Labour force participation is lower than expected, especially for women

And here’s the part that really puts things into perspective:

The average monthly income sits roughly in the range of 30,000–40,000 vatu (about NZD $400–$550), depending on how it’s measured
Meanwhile, Vanuatu consistently ranks as one of the more expensive countries globally for cost of living relative to income, often sitting in roughly the top 30–40 most expensive countries on cost-of-living indices 😳

So what you effectively have is:
very modest incomes + high underutilisation + high cost of living = a daily financial balancing act for many households.

Imported goods, fuel, and anything that resembles a “normal supermarket shop” all come at a premium. It definitely explains why local, subsistence, and community-based living remains so important — and frankly, quite smart.

It also reinforces just how critical education, skills development, and sustainable economic opportunities are here — and why the mahi so many organisations are doing really matters.

Speaking of education — Thursday was a big one. Twelve of our team graduated from university in counselling/social work! 🎓
This is huge in a country where education isn’t compulsory, and many don’t complete high school or even attend school at any level. Literacy and workplace capability gaps are real challenges, so seeing this achievement was incredibly special. Very proud moment.

I’ve also taken it upon myself to become an Excel trainer (what a time to be alive). Starting with the basics and building up as confidence grows. Watch out world — pivot tables are coming.

In more domestic news, I taught a colleague how to make a frittata. Yes, me. Teaching cooking. Let’s all just take a moment. She’s now requested curry lessons this week, which is slightly less terrifying as I can actually cook that without causing structural damage to a kitchen.

Also — I had the best massage of my life. At a Thai restaurant. Naturally. It was deeply restorative for my poor back, which is currently suffering from what I can only describe as a bed designed by someone who hates comfort. The tiny Thai lady seemed convinced I was a contortionist and attempted to fold me accordingly, but honestly… worth it.

Last night I bravely returned to the sports bar solo to watch the Warriors win again. Big move, going to a pub alone — but when you don’t have a TV, sacrifices must be made.

Tonight, I’m off to the movies to see The Devil Wears Prada and I am READY. 🎬

Meanwhile, George the gecko is clearly thriving in my absence. He must be wondering why I’m never home and why he now has full freedom to roam… and poop… everywhere. 🦎💩
To be fair, he is earning his keep by taking out mosquitoes, spiders, and the termites (who, unfortunately, have made a comeback).

As always — new photos are up in the photo section, including some great snaps from graduation and island adventures.

Thanks for reading — until next time!

Blog’s back, baby (and apparently internationally famous now) 🌍

First things first — the blog is back! And I have one very special human to thank for that. When a reader reaches out because they don’t want to miss their weekly dose… well, that’s the kind of motivation you simply don’t ignore. Proof, if ever needed, that angels walk among us and I am so grateful to that angel👼

I’ve also been peeking at the blog analytics (dangerous pastime, highly recommend) and discovered people from all over the world are reading this. Some of you don’t even know me — you’ve just stumbled across this little corner of the internet while searching for something entirely sensible, and instead found me, George 🦎, and various tales of island life. Welcome, you brave souls.

So, a quick rewind for those new here — and a refresher for those wondering how on earth I ended up living in Vanuatu…

How did i get here anyway?

I’m here as a volunteer with Volunteer Service Abroad (VSA), a New Zealand organisation that places volunteers across the Pacific (and a little beyond) to support local organisations to build capability and long-term sustainability.

They do incredible work, largely funded by Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade (MFAT), but volunteers are also expected to fundraise to help cover placement costs. Which brings me to a heartfelt thank you — to family, friends, and generous souls who donated to VSA or gave me a personal koha before I left. Because let me tell you, this allowance is many things… but a fast track to billionaire status is not one of them 💸😂

Volunteering like this isn’t for everyone. You need the right skills, yes — but also resilience, adaptability, and a genuine desire to contribute in a meaningful way. It’s very much about walking the talk. That said, if hopping on a plane to volunteer isn’t your thing, supporting organisations like VSA absolutely is.

And that, in a coconut shell 🥥, is how I landed in this tropical paradise.

Two months in… and thriving (mostly)

I cannot quite believe it, but I’ve now been here two months. TWO. It’s flown by in a blur of work, new experiences, and the occasional existential moment in a supermarket wondering why everything is open on the Easter holiday.

Life has settled into a rhythm — work, eat, sleep — much like home, but with added humidity and significantly better ocean access. There’s also been a lot of learning: language, culture, food, and the ever-mysterious concept of “island time.”

Work-wise, the past couple of weeks have been full. I’ve been developing procurement policy, creating annual performance plans, reviewing donor contracts, and (drumroll please) setting up online banking for the Senta — which is genuinely a big technological leap forward.

I’ve also had the privilege of attending university lectures on counselling, which has been fascinating and a reminder that learning doesn’t stop just because you’ve technically “grown up.”

Easter, religion, and a few surprises ⛪

Easter here was… unexpected. Coming from New Zealand, where everything shuts down tighter than a drum once a year, I was surprised to find shops open throughout the long weekend.

Even more surprising given how deeply religious Vanuatu is. The vast majority of the population actively practices their faith, with most attending church at least weekly. The two predominant denominations are Seventh-day Adventist (Saturday worship) and Presbyterian (Sunday worship), effectively splitting the weekend in half.

I’ve attended Mass a few times at the local Catholic cathedral, where the entire service is in French — which is equal parts beautiful and a handy way to keep my French from completely evaporating.

There are also strong elements of kastom (traditional practices), and on some islands, beliefs in black magic and various cults remain significant. I got a glimpse of this at the Vanuatu National Museum, where I learned about rituals, including those around circumcision, funerals… and what can only be described as a notable cultural appreciation for phallic symbolism. It’s… memorable. I am very much looking forward to my next work trip to the Island that is both strong in black magic and complete with two cults.

One tradition here that genuinely blew my mind involved head binding — used historically to shape and elongate the skull for aesthetic reasons. Think foot binding in China, but for the head. I now find myself quietly analysing people’s side profiles wondering about their backstory.

Kava, kiwis, and questionable taste buds 🥥

Last weekend I attended an event put on by the New Zealand Embassy — a great chance to meet the High Commissioner, connect with other (rare) Kiwis in country, and try kava.

Now, kava is a big deal here. Vanuatu is known for producing some of the strongest and highest-quality kava in the Pacific.

My personal tasting notes: imagine dirt… mixed with weeds… served lukewarm… with a side of numb face.

Not my finest culinary moment 😬 but an excellent evening nonetheless, and I now have a small but mighty Kiwi network here.

Culture, concerts, and cooling strategies 🎶

During the week, I went to a local school concert with a colleague. It was fantastic — outdoor stage, huge turnout, proud parents everywhere. The community spirit here is something special.

School holidays have now begun, which explains the sudden increase in small humans everywhere.

In other life hacks: I have discovered that doing housework in togs (swimming costume) is not only practical but revolutionary. It’s cooler, more efficient, and conveniently allows for an immediate reward — a swim at a local resort pool. Many resorts offer day access for a small fee, which is worth every vatu.

I also had my hair braided last weekend and one week in it still looks as good as new — honestly, a lifesaver in this heat. Not only does it keep my head so much cooler, but it’s cut my morning routine down to approximately three minutes, which feels like a personal achievement 💁‍♀️

Also, and I say this with some shock — I now enjoy swimming and snorkelling. Who even am I? Back in New Zealand this was absolutely not part of my personality. Growth comes in mysterious ways 🌊

Speaking of snorkelling — the postcards I sent from the world’s only underwater post office have officially arrived! I was unreasonably excited that the system actually works. Christine and Emily, you’re welcome for your very niche fridge décor.

George update (and ongoing negotiations) 🦎

George the gecko and his extended family remain very much in residence.

There is a lot of chirping. A lot of scurrying. A lot of “oh hello there” moments as they dart across walls like tiny, sticky ninjas.

However,… we do need to have a conversation about boundaries.

Specifically: the repeated use of my bed as a toilet 💩

This is not what we agreed to George.

House rules are pending.

A reminder of what matters 💛

This week also brought some sad news — the passing of a second friend since I’ve been here.

This one hit differently, being someone from my own age group. A stark reminder that time moves quickly and none of us are immune to it.

RIP Bo. An outstanding soldier, a loyal friend, sharp-witted, and yes — quick with your fists too. You embodied mana in the truest sense.

I’m grateful that technology allowed me to attend the service via livestream and pay my respects from afar.

Toastmasters from the tropics 🎤

Today was my Toastmasters meeting — always a highlight. A brilliant group of women, great speeches, and a lovely sense of connection to home.

Next month, one of the members will be joining the meeting online from my house here in Vanuatu, which I’m ridiculously excited about. Toastmasters… but make it tropical 🌴

That’s all for this week. Thank you for reading — whether you’re a loyal follower, a curious Googler, or that one angel who made sure this blog came back to life.

Until next time… stay cool, avoid kava unless you’re brave, and wish me luck in negotiating a ceasefire with George 🦎

P.S. As always, I’ve added some new photos to the photo section — featuring giant things (because everything here seems supersized) like fruit 🍍 and clams 🐚, along with a few other random bits and pieces of island life. Enjoy!

Hopping Toward Easter – Earthquakes, Cyclones and a Slightly Flattened Gecko

George the gecko is currently somewhere in my lounge chirping away as I write this 🦎. I’m slightly surprised he’s still speaking to me, given that earlier in the week I accidentally squashed one of the baby geckos in my screen door. There is now, unfortunately, a very flat gecko permanently attached to the door frame. I suspect this may impact my standing within the local gecko community for some time.

With Easter approaching, this week was a four-day work week which somehow meant trying to squeeze five days’ worth of work into four. My official title here is Business and Financial Advisor, but that doesn’t mean those are the only areas I’m working in. The whole point of my role is helping the Senta build systems, practices and staff capability so that everything can run sustainably long after volunteers like me have gone home.

That means dipping into all sorts of areas.

This week’s big task was writing a Standard Operating Procedure for finance. I will admit it was not my favourite activity. The accounting software used here was designed specifically for NGOs, which sounds great in theory… but in practice it is not exactly user friendly. There is quite a lot of duplication of work and a number of quirky processes that take some getting used to. Learning its many little “features” has been a challenge this week, but it’s what we have, so understanding it well enough to document clear procedures for staff is essential.

One of the more fun moments this week was when a professional photographer volunteered to take staff photos for us. These will be used alongside short bios for promotional material, funding applications and grants. Unfortunately, I had no warning this was happening, so I turned up looking… comfortable. If I had known, I might have made slightly different wardrobe choices!

I also put together a request for a small grant through my volunteer organisation. Volunteers can apply for modest funding if we identify projects that will benefit the organisations we’re supporting. I’ve spotted quite a few opportunities here, but I had to prioritise the one that felt most urgent, which focuses on staff education and training to support that long-term sustainability goal.

While I was in Santo recently, another volunteer and I realised our two organisations could actually help each other through some cross-training. It’s one of those rare win-win situations where both teams gain skills and knowledge. We floated the idea with our respective directors and they both loved it, so the training will now go ahead. With any luck it might also mean another visit to Santo to help facilitate it 🌴.

Mother Nature has also been keeping things interesting this week.

On Monday night we had a rather large 7.3 magnitude earthquake. The kind that makes your heart race just a little faster. It was one of those long rolling ones where you’re standing there wondering whether it’s about to stop… or get stronger. Thankfully there were no reported injuries, although there were quite a few reports of damage and things falling off shelves, particularly up in Santo. By Tuesday, though, it was largely business as usual.

And now we are preparing for a tropical cyclone heading our way.

The warning systems here are actually very impressive. Regular updates arrive on your phone telling you which quadrant the cyclone is currently in and what wind speeds to expect. Everyone needs to know their quadrant, so you know whether to put up shutters and get your grab bag ready. Mother Nature certainly keeps everyone on their toes here. Cyclone season ends at the end of April, and I suspect everyone will be quite pleased to see the back of it.

Something I’ve noticed a lot here, and honestly it makes me feel quite embarrassed, is seeing white privilege play out in small everyday ways.

For example, the supermarket has a “10 items or fewer” express lane. In theory it should be quick. In practice it’s often anything but, because people will rock up with an entire trolley full of groceries and go through anyway. Every single time I’ve seen it happen; it’s been an expat ignoring the rule. The poor checkout girls probably feel too intimidated to challenge them. It’s one of those small moments that really highlights how important it is to be mindful of the space you take up in someone else’s country.

Another new learning curve for me here has been mobile phones. Our volunteer contract requires us to have two phones, each with a different provider. Because natural disasters are common, sometimes one network goes down while the other stays up, so having both means you can still let people know you’re safe.

I’ve always had phone plans back home in New Zealand, so learning how to “top up” prepaid phones has been a whole new experience. Let’s just say the system here works a little differently!

Shopping here is interesting too. Groceries are easy enough, but finding anything else can be tricky and expensive. Most stores and businesses are Chinese owned, with the occasional French one, while many of the resorts and bars tend to be Australian owned. The very occasional business is tribally owned.

There is, however, an Uncle Bill’s in town, so seeing that familiar logo gave me a smile.

Ladies, you may be interested to know that lingerie here is largely French. It is very nice, very good quality and frankly much nicer than Bendon back in New Zealand. If you ever need a new basket blong titty (Bislama for bra), this might be the place to come.

Fresh food is a different story entirely. The Mama’s Markets are fantastic 🥭🍍. Beautiful fresh fruit and vegetables and always the best prices.

Local cuisine, which the locals are very proud of, tends to be quite simple and heavy on starches like taro, plantain, manioc and yam. Delicious in its own way but not exactly bursting with flavour. A bottle of sriracha sauce definitely doesn’t go astray! I’m still cooking pretty much the same way I would at home, just with a lot less meat because volunteer allowances don’t stretch that far.

One thing I’ve discovered and absolutely love is cordial made from the purple flowers that grow everywhere here. With a squeeze of lemon juice, it’s delicious. There’s a photo of some on my desk in the photos section. Apparently, it also helps with weight loss and bloating… which means I am very enthusiastically drinking it.

The Easter long weekend itself felt very long. When you’re still new somewhere and don’t know many people yet, four days can feel surprisingly endless. Thankfully I invested in good internet, which meant lots of video calls with friends and family back home. Those chats were absolute lifesavers.

I did treat myself to one outing though.

There’s a local fire show held at one of the bars about 45 minutes away from where I live 🔥. I’m not allowed out at night alone unless I’ve booked a driver, so I organised one who picked me up and dropped me right back at the door.

The show was fantastic.

It was created as a way for local youth and young adults to earn money to support their families and villages. The performance ran for about an hour and a half and was full of beautifully choreographed routines with fire sticks and fire poi, set to great music. It was engaging, clever, often very funny, and genuinely impressive.

Sadly, I can’t upload videos to the blog, but trust me, if you ever come here it’s an absolute must-do.

The show itself is free, but during the last song they pass a bucket around for donations. Once again, I saw that uncomfortable display of white privilege. Tourists who had clearly spent thousands on flights, resorts and restaurants simply ignored the bucket, even after the bar owner explained that the donations help support the performers and their families. What would be a tiny amount in tourist currency could mean a lot to these young performers.

After the show they invite the audience to come up and try the fire sticks and poi themselves if you’re brave enough.

It really was a brilliant night out and something I’d happily do again with anyone who comes to visit.

Back in the Toastmasters world, it was lovely hearing about speech contest results from friends at home this weekend. Congratulations to everyone who competed, and best of luck to those heading to conference next month.

A special shout out to Lisa, who I know has been working incredibly hard both in her role and organising the conference. It’s been a big and challenging year, and she has handled it with the strength of a true wahine toa.

And finally, a very happy birthday to darling Cyrus who turns 11 this week 🎉. I’m looking forward to hearing all about his adventures, especially now that he is the proud dad of a brand-new budgie.

Happy Easter everyone and thank you as always for reading.

Until next Sunday. 🐣🌴🦎

Week Ending 29 March – Back in Vila

It is very nice to be back in Vila after what can only be described as a rather epic work trip to Santo. The trip was full of incredible learning, generosity from the villagers, and the kind of experiences that stick with you long after you have washed the mud off your gumboots. I am still buzzing from it all.

Before I get into the stories, a quick blog update. I have made the blog easier to read from now on. The latest entry will appear at the top, so you no longer have to scroll all the way down through older posts to find the newest one. If you are brand new to the blog though, you will still need to scroll through that first section to get the whole entry. Think of it as a warm-up exercise for your scrolling finger.

A couple of things I forgot to mention in last week’s post deserve their moment in the spotlight.

One evening I noticed several locals shining torches up into the trees. Naturally I assumed they had lost something. Perhaps a coconut. Maybe a child’s toy. Something wholesome.

No.

They were hunting flying foxes. 🦇

Yes, the large bats that swoop about at night making a sound that eerily resembles a crying baby. Apparently, they are considered a delicacy. The preparation involves scraping the rather smelly skin off with a coconut husk before cooking. I listened politely to this explanation while my stomach quietly packed its bags and attempted to leave my body. I will simply take their word that they are delicious. I will not be conducting my own taste test.

Interestingly, a few of the more upmarket restaurants in Vila have flying fox on the menu. I suspect that will remain firmly in the “not today thanks” category for me.

Another nearby village is even more traditional than the ones we stayed in. Locals there wear what they call “nambas,” which is essentially a loincloth and that is about the end of the wardrobe for both men and women. It certainly makes packing for the day easy.

Adventures in Bislama

My Bislama is slowly improving, although mistakes continue to keep everyone entertained.

In one village session a participant said they “no harem gud.”

Now the word “harem” means “hear,” so I immediately assumed they were saying they could not hear properly. I launched into a sympathetic response about hearing problems.

It turns out “harem” can also refer to feelings or emotional state.

So, while I was apologising that they might be going deaf, they were actually saying they were not in a good mental space. A subtle but important distinction.

I also proudly told a coworker that I “ate my house” for lunch rather than saying I went home for lunch.

Apparently, I was either very hungry or living in a gingerbread house.

I missed two weeks of Bislama school while travelling, so tomorrow’s class will involve a rather serious catch-up session.

Back at the Office

This week I was back in the office and managed to create something that made my operations-loving heart very happy: an automated leave tracking system for the Senta.

Previously leave was recorded on paper. Yes. Paper.

We now have a proper dashboard that tracks annual leave, sick leave, and the staff medical benefit. This is particularly useful because we discovered that under the old manual system some staff had accidentally gone into deficit on their medical allowance without anyone noticing.

Speaking of benefits, working here actually comes with a rather impressive package:

20 days annual leave
21 days sick leave
14 public holidays
50,000 vatu per year for medical expenses
6,000 vatu ambulance cover

Not bad at all.

We also work a 7.5 hour day and within that time get two hours per week for fitness and two hours for prayer. It creates a really balanced work week.

There is also a very refreshing lack of pointless meetings. A truly magnificent concept.

And yes… I have used the nap room twice for a quick power nap. It exists for a reason, and I am simply respecting the system.

The Vila Night Symphony

The good news is that my sleep is finally improving.

I have now adapted to the nightly Vila symphony which includes:

dogs barking
roosters announcing absolutely nothing at 2am
geckos chirping
and the church across the road enthusiastically speaking in tongues over a loudspeaker late into the night

Somehow my brain now treats this as normal background noise, and I am finally sleeping until my alarm goes off. A small but very satisfying victory.

George and the Gecko Empire 🦎

My house remains Critter Central.

George the Gecko continues to thrive, and I am fairly certain he has started a family dynasty. Baby geckos are now appearing everywhere like tiny sticky-footed confetti. 🦎

George himself continues to patrol the walls like a very small but dedicated security guard.

I had termites briefly, but the landlord thankfully sorted those out. While cleaning up afterwards I discovered a dead centipede. It is featured in the week’s photo collection, and I can confirm I was extremely pleased it had already departed this world. Those things have a very nasty bite.

Unexpected Purchases

You will notice in my photos a pair of gumboots (called “wotabuts” here).

These were essential for Santo because tropical rain tends to wash out roads, leaving you walking through impressive quantities of mud. They were incredibly useful, although not something I ever expected to be buying in the Pacific.

Also in the photos are some fresh peanuts I bought while in Santo. That purchase led to a surprising realisation.

In a moment of pure ignorance, I discovered that peanuts do not grow on trees like other nuts.

They grow underground.

Yes. Underground.

Apparently, everyone else knew this except me.

Vila Wildlife (and Lack of Vets)

I have mentioned the roaming dogs and roosters before, but they really are everywhere. Most roam freely through the streets and neighbourhoods.

Now I understand where “free range eggs” truly come from.

Unfortunately, many of the dogs are very skinny, often covered in ticks or flies, and sometimes have injuries from vehicles. For a dog lover it can be quite heartbreaking. Veterinary services seem to be very limited.

Some Observations for Future Visitors

For anyone thinking about visiting Vanuatu, a few practical notes:

There is no McDonald’s, no Uber, and certainly no Uber Eats.

Drivers frequently use their phones while driving and I have yet to see anyone wearing a seatbelt, so I am not convinced that is a strongly enforced concept.

The bus system however is excellent. You can get almost anywhere around Vila very easily.

Taxis are another matter. Always ask a local what the fare should be before getting in because there are no meters and prices can be… imaginative.

Interestingly in Santo the taxis are brilliant. Around Luganville most local trips cost about 200 vatu, and taxis are everywhere.

The Great Petrol Conversation (or Lack of One)

Fuel prices here currently work out at roughly:

NZD $3.30 per litre for 95
NZD $3.26 per litre for diesel

There is no 91.

What is interesting is that nobody seems to talk about petrol prices here. No outrage, no panic, no speculation about running out.

Compared to the constant discussion in New Zealand it is almost refreshing. People here are generally far more focused on daily life than global politics. One colleague did ask me during the week if “the Israel and US war thing was still happening,” which was about the extent of the geopolitical discussion.

A Quiet Weekend

This weekend has been intentionally quiet.

After several busy weeks I needed a reset, so it has mostly been housework and supermarket shopping.

Tragically I cannot find hot cross buns anywhere. Not one. This is deeply upsetting because hot cross buns are clearly an essential food group. It appears I will be facing a bun-less Easter next weekend.

I also spent some time walking around my neighbourhood exploring, which I had not actually done yet.

A Very Important Storytime

The highlight of my week was having Poppy and Missy read me a bedtime story over a video call on Friday night.

Their storytelling is… creative.

Missy’s version of The Three Billy Goats Gruff included Dory, the Grinch (who she calls the Rinch), and somehow took place in both Whoville and Johnsonville.

It was chaotic, brilliant, and I loved every second of it.

Visitors and Blog Readers

I am very excited that my first visitor has booked flights for May, which gives me something very fun to look forward to.

A few people have asked about sending things. Unfortunately, addresses are not really a thing here unless you have a PO box, which I do not. The best option is sending items with people who are travelling here.

For those wanting to donate to either VSA or the Senta, just let me know and I can provide the account details.

And a special thank you to Chloe, Sue, and Tash for checking out the blog this week. Hearing that people are reading it makes the time spent writing each week very worthwhile.

That is it from Vila for now.

Have a wonderful week. It is a short one, which is always a treat.

Until next Sunday.

My L-ATTitude has definitely had a huge shift. 🌺🦎

Getting Ready for an L-ATTitude Change

Ten days. Just ten little sleeps until I swap Wellington’s sideways rain for Vanuatu sunshine and attempt a minor miracle: fitting my entire life (or at least the important bits) into 30 kilograms.

At the moment, I’m living in that deliciously uncomfortable space between utter excitement and mild panic. You know the one. Where every thought starts with “I can’t wait…” and ends with “…have I forgotten something critical?”

The nerves (hello, old friends)

Let’s start with the obvious questions rattling around my head at 3am:

Can a human really compress a year of life into two suitcases without regretting every choice?
Have I packed too many shoes? (Yes.) Or not enough? (Also yes.)
Will the Wi‑Fi be strong enough to keep me connected to my beloved family and friends, or will I slowly morph into a mysterious, off‑grid island cryptid?

There’s also that slightly bigger question of moving to a whole new country, joining a brand‑new NGO, and being dropped into a role where I get to build things from scratch. Thrilling. Terrifying. Exactly my kind of fun.

The excitement (and the promise of actual summer)

After what can only be described as Wellington’s windy, wet, sideways‑rain misery tour, the thought of real summer feels almost illegal. Sun. Warmth. Blue skies that don’t feel personally hostile. I may never complain about humidity again (note to self: revisit this statement later in February).

There’s something deeply energising about knowing I’m about to step into a year that will stretch me, challenge me, and almost certainly teach me far more than I expect. New people. New rhythms. New ways of doing things. A reset, with palm trees.

The goodbyes (aka the emotional ambush)

What I wasn’t fully prepared for was how emotional the goodbyes would feel.

This past week has been a blur of lunches, dinners, coffees, hugs, and the slightly surreal experience of saying “see you next year” like it’s a normal, casual thing. Spoiler: it is not casual at all.

In between the farewells, I’ve been soaking up some much‑needed calm, crafting with Kath and Helen — the kind of gentle, grounding time that quietly refills your cup when everything else feels like it’s in fast‑forward.

And of course… Toastmasters never sleeps

No matter where I am in the world, Toastmasters remains delightfully relentless. Meetings, emails, decisions — apparently geography is no barrier to TM work. If nothing else, it’s reassuring to know that some things stay constant, even when you’re about to relocate several thousand kilometres north.

Counting down

So here I am. Ten days out. Suitcases open. Lists everywhere. Heart full. Nerves jangling. Equal parts “I’ve got this” and “what on earth am I doing?”

If you’re reading this from somewhere dry, warm, or already tropical — save me a seat. If you’re back home in Wellington braving the wind — know that I’ll be thinking of you, probably while applying sunscreen.

Next stop: Vanuatu. 🌺

Coming up next: the last minute panic!

L‑ATTitude officially loading…

The Night Before: Two Suitcases, Big Feelings, and a One-Way Ticket to Adventure

So here I am. It’s the night before I fly off to Vanuatu. The hotel room is quiet. My brain is not.

There are two suitcases sitting in the room, both giving me very strong “you’re dreaming if you think we’re under 30kg” energy.

Apparently, when you try to fit a whole life into two suitcases, some very important questions arise:
Do I really need three pairs of sandals? (Yes.)
How many dresses is too many dresses? (No such thing.)
Do I need my favourite mug? (Emotionally yes. Logistically… questionable, but it was a gift from Clair.)

What I have learned is that every extra t-shirt has a trade-off. If I keep the linen pants, something else must die. Possibly the hair straightener. Possibly my dignity. And somewhere in all of this is the quiet, slightly panicked wondering: How much is overweight baggage these days and can I emotionally handle finding out at the airport?

Stay tuned.

Before I go any further, I want to say a huge, heartfelt thank you to everyone who donated to VSA. Your generosity doesn’t just support me – it helps ensure more volunteers can head into communities and roles that are genuinely needed. It matters. It really does. I carry a lot of gratitude with me. For those that sent me a koha I am extraordinarily grateful - it will buy copious quantities of mosquito repellent amongst other things.

Emotionally, I’m sitting somewhere between “Wheeee adventure!” and “Why have I voluntarily done this to myself?” The nerves and excitement are tag-teaming my nervous system.

To make things extra spicy or picey as Missy would say, my first week is already chocka:

Life admin in a brand-new country
Learning Bislama (halo olketa pressure)
Starting my new job on Tuesday

Nothing like easing into things gently, right?

But underneath all of that is a very deep sense of privilege. I get to do this. I get to step into a role with real meaning. I get to contribute, learn, grow, and hopefully make a small difference. That’s not lost on me for a second.

The last couple of weeks have been a beautiful blur of dinners, hangs, coffees, hugs, and “just one more catch-up.” Thank you to everyone who made time. You have filled my cup in ways I didn’t even realise I needed.

Saying goodbye has been the hardest part. Leaving Emz, Rips, Eli, Cy, Poppy, Missy and Apollo has cracked my heart a little. Leaving the G-Spot — the place where I began to heal — has been surprisingly emotional too. That place holds a lot of my story.

Today also featured my official last lunch before departure, shared with Smithy and Birss. Honestly… who else would my last lunch be with? It felt entirely on brand.

I suspect I’ll be learning Churchill quotes at school next week purely in their honour — possibly delivered with great gravitas and questionable accents.

It was also my last day at work. While insurance was never destined to be my lifelong calling, it taught me a huge amount — about people, problem-solving, and myself. And I genuinely had the best boss I’ve ever had, which makes me a very lucky girl. Feeling grateful, reflective, and quietly proud as I close this chapter.

Ending my final night with dinner with Joy feels exactly right. Mentor. Friend. Absolute legend. Also, the person I want to be when I grow up. If I become even 20% of her, I’ll be doing okay.

Current status:
Passport – check
Visa – check
Flights – check
Luggage – check-ish
Immunisations – check

Tomorrow, the learning begins.
New foods.
New language.
New culture.
New role.
New me.
And let’s not forget… that glorious Vanuatu tropical climate (hello humidity, I see you).

Deep breaths. Early night (in theory). Big adventure ahead.

Bring it on, Vanuatu. 🌴✈️

L-ATTitude Change: Leaving Home & First Impressions

Well. I have officially left home, landed in Vanuatu, and can confirm that nothing quite prepares you for your teddy bear being the reason your bag gets searched at an international airport.

Yes. My teddy bear.

Apparently, his feet contain inorganic grains. Which sounds both suspicious and vaguely criminal. Thankfully, not suspicious enough to confiscate him, and I’m delighted to report to Helen Hunt that Blue Teddy is safe, sound, and now an international traveller. Honestly, who knew he’d be my most high-risk possession.

A quick shout-out to Solomon Airlines – highly recommend. If you’re tall (which, of course, I am not), you get excellent leg room. The meal was great, and even better: I had an entire row to myself. Luxury! That meant a few hours of actual sleep, after a brutally rude early start to the day.

Naturally, the plane arrived about 30 minutes late. Because some things remain constant, no matter what country you’re in.

Home Sweet (Very Cute) Home

My new house is adorable. Like, genuinely cute. I’m especially thrilled about having an outside sitting area, which will soon become home to a wee garden. The plan: add colour, grow some veges, and put my stamp on the house. This weekend’s mission is to buy the beginnings of my jungle/farm/horticultural masterpiece.

I’ve also been warmly welcomed by chirpy geckos in my house, who appear to communicate exclusively at high volume. Add to that the neighbour’s roosters, who operate on wildly inconsistent wake-up schedules, and we have what I can only describe as the Vanuatu Symphony Orchestra.

The bed… well, it’s not quite the cloud of comfort I left behind in Wellington. But we’ll get to know each other. Relationships take time.

Huge bonus: no mosquitos so far. All my pre-departure prep seems to be working. Extra bonus: my landlord is coming today to hang my mosquito net because the ceilings are way too high for me to attempt that without becoming an emergency room anecdote. Thanks, Helen, for the net and the foresight.

Let’s Talk About Sweat

Is it truly possible to sweat this much? Asking for a friend.

At this rate, I’ll be a shadow of my former self before I even unpack properly.

My first afternoon was full-on:

Power ✔️
Internet ✔️
Gas ✔️
Phones ✔️
Supermarket essentials ✔️
Two-hour safety briefing ✔️

By last night, I was utterly exhausted and deeply respectful of anyone who functions in this climate on a daily basis. It was 30 degrees Celsius at 9pm with 100% humidity.

Day Two: Straight Into It

Today’s agenda is equally stacked:

Bislama school this morning – mi lanem Bislama
Bank account setup
Cultural Centre visit
Work (you know, the whole reason I’m here)
Drinks and dinner with the New Zealand High Commission in Vanuatu
Toastmasters meeting at 6.30pm
Buying fans (this should be priority!)

And I never thought I’d say this… but I found myself briefly wishing for the teeniest hint of that Wellington wind. Just a whisper. A suggestion. Character development is real.

Right. Off to school.

Catch you next time. 🌴

A Weekend on My Own (and Don’t Try This at Home)

Well folks, welcome to my first solo weekend in Vanuatu – a delightful blend of adulting, adventuring, minor injuries, tropical weather events, and one mildly threatening gecko.

Let’s start with the big life-admin update: almost everything is now sorted. The final boss battle is the bank account, and I’m pleased to report my ATM card arrives on Wednesday. I feel this deserves a small parade. Or at least a celebratory cassava wrap.

Speaking of food… I am absolutely loving trying new things. Cassava wraps = delicious. The local markets = dangerous (in the best way). Fruit and vege prices are outrageously good. I mean, ridiculously good. There is a photo of an avocado in my photos section that genuinely deserves its own fan club. A large punnet of passionfruit cost me $2.00. Two dollars. I am living my best fruity life.

Supermarkets, however… not so cheap. Apparently cost-of-living increases are a universal experience, and given most things are imported, stocking up on basics felt a bit like a small mortgage. Some items are non-negotiable though – particularly electric fans. In 100% humidity, fans are not a luxury. They are survival equipment.

The weekend itself was intentionally quiet so I could properly settle in. Saturday morning was domestic bliss: washing, cleaning, and feeling extremely proud of myself for functioning like a responsible adult. Then off to the local markets where everyone is incredibly friendly and wonderfully patient with my slowly improving Bislama. One bus driver told me I must have been here a long time because my Bislama was “good.” I did not correct him. I will be holding onto that compliment forever.

Saturday afternoon brought my first “Be My Eyes” call here, which was very cool. It’s reassuring (and lovely) to know it works well in this part of the world, as I get a lot of those calls.

Electricity here is… an experience. I have to “feed” a meter with credit, and when I turn something on, it sometimes takes a moment for the power to actually arrive. Like it’s strolling over island-style. Honestly, kind of iconic.

Also making a guest appearance this weekend: the Ring of Fire. A 6.4 earthquake on Saturday afternoon and the volcano alert level went up a notch too. Casually dramatic.

My safety briefing also advised me to smell the bus driver’s cab before getting in to check for alcohol because drunk driving is common. Happy to report: so far, no drunk drivers encountered. Small wins.

Sunday. Oh Sunday.

I bought my electric scooter. Very exciting. I practiced. I felt confident. And then… when I wanted to get off, I pressed the accelerator instead of the brake and launched myself onto the road.

10/10 would not recommend.

Huge thanks to my bike helmet and excellent first aid kit. I am sore, slightly bruised, but alive. So: don’t try this at home, kids.

A large tropical storm rolled in this afternoon with heavy rain and extremely loud thunder. Impressive, but still nothing compared to some of the wild weather back home – I’ve been thinking of you all.

Tonight’s plan: movies. Very happy I don’t miss Jacob Elordi in Wuthering Heights and therefore still have the opportunity to drool appropriately.

Other important household updates:

I appear to have a gecko who lives in my bedroom. I was mildly afraid to turn the light off last night in case he tried to share the bed. We are currently negotiating boundaries.
I have banana and papaya trees right outside my apartment. Absolute joy. Smithy and Birss will be pleased to know the banana is definitely still my thing.

Had my Toastmasters club meeting online this afternoon – so lovely to see everyone virtually. Also had a call with Christine today, and with Em and co last night. Feeling very connected despite being a long way from home.

So yes – life is good.

Big week ahead with work, Bislama school, and the High Commission. Hoping the gecko relocates, the humidity eases (lol), and I get some quality sleep.

Catch you next weekend ❤️

One week down… and what a week it’s been

Apologies in advance — this is a long one. Turns out moving countries, starting a new job, and adjusting to 100% humidity provides a lot of content.

Let’s start with the important bit — the reason I’m here.

REACH Famili Senta is doing incredible, necessary, and at times very confronting work. The statistics alone stop you in your tracks — around 60% of women have experienced domestic violence, 68% emotional abuse, and 58% sexual violence. These aren’t just numbers; they’re why this work matters so much. It’s a privilege (and a responsibility) to be here contributing, even in my small way.

Work itself? Straight into the deep end — just how I like it.
Week one has included reading the Senta’s constitution, writing a Business Continuity Plan, and developing finance, procurement, and HR policies. Safe to say I’ve hit the ground running.

And in a plot twist no one saw coming — that short stint in insurance has suddenly become very relevant. I’ve got meetings with brokers tomorrow and, yes, I am that person arriving with a very long list of questions about terms, exclusions, and policy wording. Who even am I?

The people, the place, and the “aunty” era

My colleagues are wonderful — warm, welcoming, and incredibly patient with my ever-improving (and occasionally questionable) Bislama. Several now call me “Aunty,” which I’ve decided is both a title of respect and a sign I’ve fully arrived. My favourite Bislama word is ‘bubu’ which is grandchild.

One colleague even took me shopping at lunchtime on Friday because she decided I needed to “dress more local.” Fair call, really.

The result? Three local dresses and a pair of sandals for about $80 NZD.
Take that, supermarket prices.

Because while the supermarket is eye-wateringly expensive (imported goods will do that), the mama markets are an absolute dream — cheap, colourful, and full of treasures. Sartorial splendour achieved.

Work culture (and wellbeing done right)

Given how heavy the work can be, wellbeing is a real priority here. We have two exercise sessions and two prayer sessions each week — a deliberate pause to take care of ourselves so we can keep doing the work well.

It’s something I really admire — and something we could probably learn from elsewhere.

Culture, history, and a very meaningful sand drawing

As part of my orientation, I visited the museum and had what was essentially a private tour. I learned so much about Vanuatu’s history and culture — fascinating, rich, and deeply connected.

My guide created a traditional sand drawing for me, which has cultural meaning — though this particular one was inspired by my hair, which he said reminded him of the hair on traditional masks.

Speaking of my hair… it is currently living its best dreadlock-adjacent life thanks to the humidity. We are not fighting it. We are embracing it.

The upside? My skin is glowing. So, swings and roundabouts.

Transport, geckos, and general life admin

Public transport here is genius. Minivans everywhere. You stand by the road, one stops, you tell them where you want to go, and they either say yes or no. If no — don’t worry, another one will be there in about 10 seconds.

When you’re ready to get off, you just say “stop here.” Done.

All for about 150 vatu (roughly $2.10 NZD), no matter how far you go.

NZ, take notes.

The van doors, however, are another story. I’ve needed assistance more than once — but everyone is so friendly, and I get a cheerful “nice day” from fellow passengers when I hop off. Still very much a novelty — the white woman on the bus.

Also, important wildlife update:
George the gecko is still hanging around. 🦎

Fun fact — gecko poo looks exactly like mouse poo.
Yes, I did panic.
No, I did not handle it well.

Sweat, survival kits, and domestic realities

Sweat is still very much a thing. I often feel wetter after towelling off from a shower than I did in it. Make it make sense.

I’ve now adopted the local survival kit whenever I leave the house:

Umbrella
Towel (for sweat, obviously)
DEET
Water

Standard.

Also — a question for anyone who knows: how do the mamas keep their white dresses so white? It’s honestly impressive.

And a note to past me: I should have packed fewer clothes and more towels and sheets. The one towel and set of sheets I brought from home are pure luxury compared to what came with the apartment.

The wider picture

The area where I work is considered one of the two local “ghettos” — though that word doesn’t quite capture it. It resembles a South American favela in parts, shaped by both poverty and displacement following the December 2024 earthquake, which caused significant damage across Port Vila.

The rebuild is happening — but slowly. Roads are rough, potholes are plentiful, and there are still many damaged or abandoned buildings.

It’s a stark reminder of the resilience here — and how much support is still needed.

Sunday adventures — and an underwater post office?!

Today I finally got out for a bit of exploring and went to Hideaway Island — home to the world’s only underwater post office.

Yes, really.

I snorkelled out in beautifully warm water, saw incredible fish, and posted two postcards back home from under the sea. Quite the experience.

Highly recommend.

Home, near and far

This week, home has felt both very far away and very close.

Very far, with the passing of a dear friend. Not being able to attend the funeral has been tough.

RIP Barbara (Wigzy) — you will be deeply missed 💛

And yet, in other ways, home has been right here — a couple of “katjaps” with Toni, Toastmasters meetings online, and messages from friends keeping me connected.

And that’s a wrap on week one

I also can’t say I’m sad to have missed the wild weather back home — sounds like a rough week across the motu. Hope everyone stayed safe.

That’s me for week one — a lot learned, a lot experienced, and plenty more to come.

Lukim yu next weekend.

P.S – many photos from the week in the photos section.

L-ATTitude Change – Week Ending 1 March

Another big week in paradise (and by paradise, I mean equal parts tropical bliss and “why does nothing happen quickly here?”).

First things first – I’ve realised there’s no fancy “subscribe and ping” feature on my blog), so posts will land every Sunday. If you are reading, I’d genuinely love to hear from you – flick me a message via the contact button and let me know if there is anything you would like to read more about. Please feel free to share the link with anyone too, I have no idea who I've shared it with now! Otherwise I’ll assume I’m writing to myself and George the gecko… who, to be fair, is a very loyal audience.

Adjusting to “basic”… and learning that’s not a bad thing

I’m still adjusting to just how basic things are here in a work sense. All the things we take for granted – systems, tools, ease of access – just aren’t readily available.

Which is why this week’s absolute MVP shoutout goes to my wonderful friend Annette 🙌
She generously bought a laptop for REACH Famili Senta, which has been an absolute game changer. No more hauling my personal laptop through torrential rain or baking it in the Vanuatu sun (neither ideal for electronics… or sanity).

The Senta team were incredibly grateful – and so am I. It’s one of those gestures that has a real, practical impact every single day.

Island time vs Carol time

Now… let’s talk about island time.

It is very real. And it is very much going to be my biggest personal growth opportunity (read: challenge 😅).

If you know me, you know I like things done yesterday. Preferably with a follow-up email confirming completion.

Here? Things take time. Then a bit more time. Then maybe a meeting about taking time.

But when I step back, I can see why. People here have very little in material terms, yet they have the biggest smiles, the warmest energy, and once they know you – the cheekiest sense of humour. There’s a lightness to life that we often miss when we’re rushing around trying to optimise everything.

Still… we’ll see how enlightened I am after week 10 of waiting for things 😂

The kindness of colleagues

My colleagues continue to be absolute legends.

They’re helping me with my Bislama daily (slowly but surely!), and they bring in fruit for me every single day. Not just fruit – sometimes beautiful fresh flowers too, which brighten up my very minimalist house.

It’s generosity in its purest form, and I don’t take it for granted.

Shopping… but make it a three-stage endurance event

Shopping here is… an experience.

Buying an appliance goes something like this:

Tell someone at the counter what you want
They check stock and print an order form
You take that to another counter to pay
You take the receipt to a third counter
You queue (for about 20 minutes)
Someone eventually retrieves your item

Moral of the story: do not go shopping if you’re in a hurry. Or hungry. Or emotionally fragile.

The great cucumber mystery

This week’s unexpected saga: finding a cucumber.

I knew they existed – I’d seen them in café salads. But at the markets? Nowhere. Supermarket? Nope.

Finally, I asked.

Turns out cucumbers here are… yellow.

Yes. Yellow.

I had been walking straight past them this entire time like some sort of confused tourist (which, to be fair, I am). Check the photo gallery – they look nothing like the cucumbers we know!

Work wins (and yes, I do bring value!)

A very full work week:

Met with an Aon insurance broker to get multiple policy quotes
Asked approximately 47 technical questions (thanks to my recent insurance stint!)
Read six sets of policy wordings (riveting stuff…)
Wrote a money laundering and counter-terrorism financing policy + procedures for work and to be compliant for the Financial Intelligence Unit
Created a staff training package on the above
Delivered my first all-staff presentation 🎤

Moments like that remind me I do bring value here, which is a nice feeling when everything else is so new. Huge shout out to Aon for the learning over the past 6 months about insurance and anti-money laundering and counter terrorism funding in a mandatory course.

First ever AGM – and in Bislama!

Thursday was a big one – the first ever AGM for REACH Famili Senta, where the new board was elected.

The whole thing was conducted in Bislama, and I’m proud to say I mostly understood what was going on (emphasis on mostly).

If you want a peek, check out REACH Famili Senta on Facebook – I’m easy to spot in the photos!

Tropical cyclone… but make it “Welly-lite” 🌀 🌪️ 🌧️ ⛈️

Thursday afternoon brought torrential rain, and by the time I got home I was soaked right through – umbrella included.

That was just the warm-up.

We then had a tropical cyclone roll through on Friday and Saturday (Cyclone Umir). I had shutters up on the house and felt very official in my cyclone preparedness. Shuttered windows in photo gallery.

Thankfully, here in Port Vila it was no worse than a classic Wellington southerly – just with heavier rain and a very impressive thunderstorm that went on for hours.

Sadly, Tanna (the next island down) wasn’t so lucky and was hit much harder.

It is cyclone season here, so this felt like a good practice run for what to do next time.

Heat, humidity… and the return of ankles

Important update: I HAVE ANKLES AGAIN 🎉🦶

After weeks of what can only be described as “cankle life”, the swelling has gone down and normal service has resumed.

Vanity is alive and well.

Reef shoes = best life decision

Also, shout out to “Hotty Scotty” (my doctor) for insisting I bring reef shoes.

Absolute game changer. The coral here is no joke, and these are essential kit.

Future visitors – consider this your official packing advice.

Cancelled snorkel, Vila wander instead

Today’s snorkelling trip was cancelled due to illness in the group, so instead it’s a quieter Sunday – a wander into Vila town, a bit of exploring, and writing this.

Island life is now complete 🍸

And in what can only be described as a critical milestone in my adjustment to island living…

A very special gift arrived this week – a bottle of gin from Geoff.

Reader, I was THRILLED.

Island life is officially complete. All I need now is a slice of lime, something vaguely resembling tonic, and a sunset – and I am living my absolute best life.

Geoff, you are a hero.

Staying connected (and very grateful for it)

Despite being far away, I’ve felt really connected this week:

Messages with my lovely Mary V
Catch-ups with Fraser on whatsapp
Calls with Smithy, Kath, Lisa and Emz
And the highlight – a video call with Apollo, who proudly told me he grew three new teeth in Christchurch 🥹

He is still ridiculously cute and did attempt to climb through the phone to get to me.

Also very pleased to report Eli and Cy have made themselves comfortable back at the G-Spot – mainly for the snacks I left behind, I suspect.

Watching the world from afar

I’m still keeping a close eye on global news and can’t help but feel concerned about rising tensions involving Iran, the US and Israel.

To my friends in the Middle East – I’m thinking of you and hoping you are safe.

And finally…

George the gecko is still here. 🦎

Still chirping.
Still acting like he owns the place.

Which, to be fair, he probably does. Until next Sunday…

Carol 🌺

L-ATTitude Change – Week Ending 8 March

What a week. I’m exhausted just writing about it.

As always, work comes first, and this week was another big one. Monday through Wednesday I was in training covering gender, domestic and sexual violence, gender equity, human rights, cultural norms here, and importantly the why behind much of it all. Some of the stories shared were very confronting. It’s powerful learning but emotionally heavy at times.

To add an extra layer of challenge, the entire training was delivered in Bislama. That meant concentrating extra hard to keep up, translating in my head while trying not to miss anything important. By the end of the three days my brain felt like it had run a marathon.

On Thursdays we run programmes at the Senta with low-risk prison inmates who are brought up by Corrections to take part in our Men Be The Change programme. It’s designed to help men understand the impacts of violence and learn healthier ways of relating to their families.

Alongside that we run Leftemap Mama (which translates as lift women up) for their wives and partners, and also a programme for the entire family unit. The children have their own space where they can talk about the impact of domestic violence on them and learn tools and techniques to move forward. It’s incredibly powerful work.

We receive many referrals through the police, Corrections, local chiefs and local churches, which shows just how embedded the Senta is in the community here.

Two of my colleagues are graduates of the youth programme themselves, and they bring so much insight and heart to the work. Honestly, the staff continually blow me away with their passion and the success they’re having.

The gifts also keep arriving at work, which is such a lovely part of the culture here. This week it was avocados and passionfruit (my favourite fruit), so I was extremely happy.

Lunches this week were catered by the aunties at the Senta, which meant more new foods to try. I had laplap (the national dish), naus (a fruit that’s a bit like a cross between an apple and a pear), tiny red “apples” that neither look nor taste remotely like apples, and cassava fries. Island cuisine continues to be an adventure.

Last Sunday after posting my blog I wandered along the waterfront in town and treated myself to a latte at a café. Sadly, it was not great. Wellington coffee has clearly spoiled me for life. The problem seems to be that many places use UHT milk or creamer, and it’s just not the same. Tragic, really.

As always, check out the photo section for snapshots of the week. I couldn’t resist including one of Missy reading during the week. She is studying the publishing page with intense concentration, which is clearly where all the good literary secrets are hidden.

Now for the week’s wildlife encounter.

My living room lights have been playing up for the last couple of weeks. So, there I was at 5:30am on Tuesday, eating breakfast in the dark when I suddenly felt something cool on my neck. After some rather dramatic screaming and shaking, the culprit fell off… revealing a huge cockroach that I hadn’t seen in the dark. 🪳

The lights are now fixed, and I feel much happier entering rooms at night.

Speaking of critters, George the gecko is still around. Although after spotting several tiny Georges this week, I suspect George may actually be Georgina. 🦎 🦎

Thursday was my first public holiday here — Kustom Chiefs Day. I spent it at the beautiful Etmat Beach, swimming, horse riding, and even taking my horse Saviour for a dip in the ocean. It was the perfect way to decompress after three days of intense training and get back into nature.

In other news, this week I was asked on two dates. One by my bus driver on the way home from work and the other by the horse trek guide. Both suggested we drink kava and have a little storian (which means chat). Both also gave me their phone numbers in case I decide to take up the offer.

I haven’t quite figured out the island dating protocol yet, but apparently it begins with kava and a good conversation.

One thing I am loving is not having to think about what to wear each day. Summer clothes are always the order of the day. None of that Wellington routine of starting the morning in winter gear and ending the afternoon in summer clothes.

Friday night I joined a Toastmasters meeting online and it was lovely to see friends from around New Zealand — some I hadn’t seen in quite a while.

On Saturday I took my first long walk in the heat and wandered into town from home. The walk down the hill gives a beautiful view over the harbour, and there was a cruise ship visiting that day.

What did make me a bit sad though was seeing many passengers wander through the mamas markets without buying anything. Ten US dollars isn’t much for a tourist, but it can make a big difference for the women selling there who are supporting their families through their craft and produce. The clothing and goods they make are beautiful, affordable, and honestly suitable for anywhere in the world.

So, if you ever find yourself in Vanuatu — buy something from the mamas.

My Bislama continues to improve, and my favourite word of the week is the one for snorkelling flippers — leg blong dakdak (literally “duck legs”), which is both accurate and hilarious. 🦆🦶 🦆👣

Speaking of snorkelling, today (Sunday) I had one of the best days yet — a full-day trip with the amazing Arthur Ron’s Tours to Pele Island. Most of the time I genuinely felt like I was living inside a postcard. The scenery was so stunning — crystal blue water, bright blue skies, sunshine and white sand everywhere you looked. Check out the photos because they are definitely Instagram-worthy.

Arthur was an incredible guide, pointing out places of interest along the way and doing it all with great humour.

When we arrived on the island we watched the preparation of a Vanuatu hangi. Unlike the ones back home that are cooked in the ground, here the food is wrapped in banana leaves and cooked on top of hot rocks. Either way, the result was delicious.

Watching them shred coconut from a freshly picked coconut and then turn it into coconut milk right there on the spot was fascinating.

The day included a walk through the village, plenty of snorkelling (pretty sure I saw Nemo), swimming, kayaking and a fair amount of relaxing in deck chairs. The group on the tour was fantastic and by the end of the day we had all swapped details so we can keep in touch. Winning!

I honestly can’t recommend this tour with Arthur highly enough for anyone planning a trip to Vanuatu.

Thanks also to those who have reached out to check that I’m safe from the volcano that is currently erupting daily. It’s on a different island to where I am, so I’m fine. Today we did have a smoky cloud drift over in the late afternoon though. 🌋

The island closest to the volcano is currently getting ash fall and acid rain, which isn’t great for crops or water supplies. The alert level is currently Level 3, and locals are on standby should evacuation become necessary.

I’ve mentioned before the eye-watering supermarket prices here, but what I haven’t mentioned is the incredible variety. You can find all the familiar products from New Zealand and Australia, but there is also a huge selection of French food — a legacy of Vanuatu’s time as a French colony before independence. The French influence is still very strong here and there are many French residents. Sometimes choosing what to buy is the hardest part because there are so many options and the supermarkets are enormous.

It was also great this week to catch up via call, text or Teams with Simon and Rilee, Helen H, Toni, Sally, Christine, and of course Emz, Rips and the tribe. Poor Apollo tries very hard to climb into the phone — I suspect he would prefer a real cuddle rather than a blown kiss.

I’m heading off on a nine-day work trip on Friday to another island where I’ll be staying in three very remote villages. There will be no cell coverage and no internet, so there won’t be a blog next week. The following one will be a bumper edition to make up for it! Those very expensive malaria pills I bought back home will be getting put to use on this trip as malaria and dengue are very common where I’m going. 🦟 🦟

Thank you to those who used the Contact Me form after my last post — it was so lovely to hear from Mary and Kath. Please do keep using it and let me know if there’s anything you’d like me to write about.

And finally, Happy Pride to those celebrating back home — it looks like so much fun.

Until next time… 🌺🌴🌺

Weeks up to 24 March

Sorry, this is a little later than planned – I got stuck on the island of Santo after heading up there for a work trip. It seems Air Vanuatu is operating a little on island time while it tries to trade its way out of liquidation, and the situation is not exactly helped by the ash cloud currently being enthusiastically spewed out by the volcano on Ambae Island 🌋

I was supposed to be back Saturday but finally made it home Monday evening.

Today’s blog is going to be solely about this trip because there is a lot for me to reflect on. I’ll catch up on all the other usual bits and pieces in Sunday’s post.

So here we go.

My workplace, Reach Famili Senta, travelled to Santo to do some community outreach in very remote villages in south and east Santo. I’ve talked before about the work we do in the domestic and gender violence space, along with sexual and emotional abuse. We have developed a very successful formula that is helping change lives locally. We work from referrals through police, corrections, churches and village chiefs. We are very lucky that four chiefs in Santo have embraced our programmes for their villages.

There were four of us travelling and I really had no idea what to expect.

The learnings were huge.

We arrived at our first village, Wailapa, after driving from Luganville in a ute over windy, potholed and in many places washed-out dirt roads. The journey takes about three to four hours depending on the weather. Sitting in the tray of the ute over those roads is not the most comfortable experience — even with plenty of backside padding.

These are not tourist villages. What I saw was authentic village life, not something put on for visitors like you sometimes see closer to towns.

None of these villages have electricity, internet or cell reception. Life is extremely simple — honestly the closest comparison I can make is the most basic camping imaginable. And if you know me, you’ll know my idea of camping usually involves a motel rather than a hotel.

We were welcomed by Chief John and his wife Molly and fed dinner which was the national dish of laplap. Laplap can be made with many ingredients — this one was banana based — but it can also be made with yam, taro or manioc. It’s wrapped in leaves and cooked slowly, often in an earth oven. Simple, filling and very traditional.

It was an early night because we were all exhausted. The Chief asked me to stay at his house, so I did. The bed was definitely not like any I had slept on before — a wooden frame with a blanket as the mattress and some foam rubber as the pillow. Nonetheless I was shattered and slept pretty well.

I haven’t included photos of the inside of that house as it felt rude to publish photos taken inside someone’s home when they had been so generous in sharing it with me.

The next two days were full on. We ran the adult programmes during the day — sessions focused on building stronger families and helping people deal with or recover from domestic violence. Then after school we ran sessions for the children from about 5pm until 7.30pm.

The children in these villages walk around an hour and a half each way to get to school. So, they don’t arrive back in the village until about 5pm.

While I learned a lot from the adult sessions, the pikininni (children’s) sessions were easily my favourite.

The Chief told me I was the first white person in the village for over 20 years. Many of the children had only seen white people in books at school. They were fascinated. After a while they built up the courage to take turns touching my arms and my hair just to see what it felt like. Absolutely adorable. No photos of the people or kids in these sessions for obvious reasons, despite these pikinnini being adorable.

Toilets in the villages are long drops but come with magnificent views — one of my photos is literally “a loo with a view” 🚽🌴

Showers are outdoor community affairs with a shower head attached to a tree or post and plastic sheeting around for privacy. That was the luxury option. In some places it was simply a bucket of water with a bowl inside to tip over your head.

We then spent a day in Parisa village with exactly the same format, followed by two days in Sarete village — which was my favourite of the three south Santo villages.

Sarete is so small it doesn’t even appear on Google Maps.

Chief Sam and his wife Brisca welcomed us there and gave us the traditional welcome gifts called a salu salu. After we finished our programmes, they also gave us farewell gifts. Brisca and I became firm friends and she gave me a traditional island fan made from pandanus leaf, a Vanuatu sarong and a traditional basket. Things I will treasure always.

I was also given a standing invitation to visit any time — and I absolutely would.

We were very spoiled in this village because Chief Sam had built a small guesthouse for us. I had my own room with a mattress on the floor (which felt very luxurious after the earlier arrangements!) and a little social area for eating and chatting.

Brisca kept bringing me food — laplap, rice and chicken dishes, island fruit salad and absolutely divine banana pancakes 🍌

The villages earn money in various ways. Some do a little beef farming. Others sell the fruit and vegetables they grow at markets or roadside stalls. Kava is often sold roadside too. Another important source of income is when villagers go away for seasonal work under the RSE scheme picking fruit in Australia or New Zealand. When they return home, they often bring back money which helps fund improvements in the village.

In Sarete that meant solar lights.

Life there is incredibly simple, but it is also beautiful.

It was hot though — absolutely punishing hot. About 36 degrees Celsius (around 97 degrees Fahrenheit) with very high humidity 🥵

With no fans and no way to cool down during the day, the cold community showers were a blessing. And in Wailapa, swimming in the sea was pure relief 🌊🐟

Cooking is done over fires and dishes are washed in bowls.

Despite living with so little materially, the people are incredibly happy and extraordinarily generous.

I remember lying in bed the first night looking up at an unbelievably clear starry sky and thinking how privileged my life has been.

Because malaria and dengue are common in these areas, I had to take malaria prophylaxis before, during and after the trip. Possible side effects include upset stomach, diarrhoea and vivid dreams.

And wow… the dreams.

For someone who normally never remembers dreaming this was quite the experience.

One dream involved being in Palmerston North with Clair and suddenly realising I had worms (perhaps the brain making a parasite connection to malaria…). I rushed to the old PDC Plaza to buy worm medication only to discover the shop had closed.

The second dream involved organising my wedding — to whom I have absolutely no idea — but interestingly the only guest invited was Fraser.

So, Fraser… if that ever happens you had better attend.

Mosquito bites were surprisingly minimal. Oddly I didn’t see many mosquitoes in Luganville at all only centipedes and WowWee those can pack a mean bite.

Village life also has its own soundtrack — the Vanuatu symphony.

Barking dogs 🐕

Roosters that cannot tell the time and crow all night 🐓

And flying foxes screeching in the trees which is quite a disconcerting noise the first time you hear it 🦇

It was in Sarete that I had the closest moment to homesickness. One man arrived at a session wearing a “Toitu te Tiriti” t-shirt. Seeing that suddenly put a lump in my throat. Later while walking in the bush, I noticed some plants that looked remarkably like New Zealand silver ferns.

Seeing that shirt got me thinking about colonisation and how different groups have navigated it. Here land cannot be sold from under the tribes by the government. It remains owned collectively and is governed by the Chief and area council. People live much as their ancestors did with relatively little western influence. Culture and language are strong — local dialects, Bislama and a bit of English or French.

It did make me think how things might have been different for Māori if only…

One moment that stayed with me involved a two-year-old boy. He was incredibly bright with amazing motor skills. He would happily come and sit on your lap and give you a kiss — then suddenly his face would harden, and he would bite or hit your head.

He was simply copying what he sees.

It was heartbreaking but also reinforced just how important the work Reach is doing really is.

Of course there were critters.

Geckos everywhere (which I love) 🦎

And a hornet’s nest in my room which became quite the event when some hatched while I happened to be standing right beside it…

I also gave one woman my Panadol and some antibiotic cream from my first aid kit to treat infected boils on her legs which had come from flies getting into some scratches she had. Sadly I had nothing for the very widespread head lice situation.

The adults often brought younger children to the sessions. Watching those kids was fascinating. Give them one piece of paper and a single crayon and they would carefully colour it for hours. No asking for more, no boredom, no demands.

Just quiet concentration.

I also saw sugar cane being used to clean teeth because there are no toothbrushes. Oddly effective really — though the irony of sugar being the cleaning product was not lost on me.

Saturday saw us back in Luganville and I caught up with other VSA volunteers. Most are based there — I’m the only one in Vila and there are two in Tanna.

We had a fantastic afternoon at Deco Stop Hotel which I would highly recommend to anyone visiting Vanuatu. The food was easily the best I have had here so far. It’s set on a hillside overlooking the harbour and the pool area is beautiful.

There was even a cruise ship in port 🚢

We made good use of both the pool and the bar — only briefly pausing when a 5.5 magnitude earthquake struck about 10km deep. One of those long rolling rumbly ones 🌏

In Sarete we could actually hear the distant rumble of the Ambae volcano at night which was a powerful reminder that the Ring of Fire is very much alive here 🌋

I even managed to get a photo of the ash plume as we flew past the island approaching Santo.

Sunday, I went back to Deco Stop for more excellent food and another swim before heading out with some volunteers to a local beach. We also stopped at the dive site of the President Coolidge shipwreck — one of the world’s best wreck dives.

The ship had a fascinating history but met its end there in 1942 when it struck mines in the channel. Unfortunately, the minefield information had not been passed on to the ship as it approached to land troops who were later destined for Guadalcanal.

The wreck is still largely intact, and divers can see many of the original items still inside.

Right beside that site is Million Dollar Point — another famous dive spot where the Americans dumped enormous quantities of wartime equipment into the sea at the end of the war because shipping it back home was too expensive.

Jeeps, weapons and machinery are all still down there.

The best road in Santo also happens to be the one out that way — built by the Americans during the war. It’s still better than most roads here today. Road construction done by others in more recent times… let’s just say quality varies.

It was so lovely spending time with other Kiwis, and it felt like the perfect way to finish an incredible work trip.

We finished with a half day of sessions in East Santo in another remote village and finally a flight home after a cheeky swim in one of the famous Santo blue holes.

Back home now to catch up on the GDP release and see what my old team have produced — pretty much in line with what I expected. I do have questions – of course!

Also had my usual chats with Em and the kids and texts with Lisa and Will tonight.

And finally, a big shout out to some new blog readers — Tess (one of the three musketeers) and one of my oldest friends, Tessa, Maaike, Glen, Sean, Nicola, Crystal and Fay. Great to have you along for the ride.

That’s it for now.

I’ll catch up on everything else happening here on Sunday — including the cost of petrol and diesel in Vanuatu which is a hot topic in New Zealand… but not really here. I’ll explain why.

Catch you Sunday — or lukim yu lo Sundei 🌺🦎🌴